June 30, 2009

Sometimes less is more

posted by Gregory in Snooth, Wine, Food

Now don’t gt me wrong, I love wine, I love overindulging in wine. I gotta a felling that’s gonna come back and bite me! I love intense, complex enveloping experience with wine, but sometimes I just want a glass of wine. Something satisfying yet simple.

Case in point, a few weeks ago I had made plans to meet my brother at my father’s house to make some order. We had a real mess on our hands and some major cleanup  was called for. Long story short, brother didn’t show. so I was stuck cleaning this mess myself.

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Now the truth is most of that stuff is my crap. No question about it, ton’s of restaurant equipment left over from my restaurant days but you know it wasn’t easy manhandling the 180lb TEC searmaster grill or ice machine compressor and that 3 door lowboy refer, how was I supposed to get that in the barn? Sheer force of will that’s how. I actually threw out the swoopy black mid-century chair, which was painful but the truth is I found it in the trash so no great loss and we now have two newer, and larger grills so that piece of crap found the bottom of the dumpster as well. It took about 6 hours, and I should have taken a picture of my bloody hands but eventually the yard looked like a yard again and the barn was, dare I say it, organized!

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So what does this have to do with wine. Not much except when you consider how beaten I was by the end of the night. I had stopped by the butcher, ok it’s the supermarket but they have a decent butcher there, and got a perfect 1.5lb sirloin steak for myself earlier in the day. That and some mushrooms, shallots and potatoes made for the fixins of a decent meal. All I needed wqas a bottle of wine. What I wanted was something satisfying, with a bright acidic spine. Nothing to complex yet complex enough, aged enough to ring my bell without any effort from me. I ended up choosing a 1982 Gigi Rosso Arione Barolo. Now this should have been exactly what I was looking for.

1982 a great vintage in its prime.

Arione a grand vineyard in Serralunga.

Gigi Rosso an underachiever if there was one but I was hoping that the vintage and vineyard would trump whatever Gig had mastered to ensure mediocrity in his wines.

I was right, barely.

This was no doubt a great bottle of the 1982 Arione. The cork was tight as can be and that near perfect seal held this wine in good stead. Typically pale and borderline oxidized apon opening this freshened up in the glass revealing a moderate core of sour cherry fruit with lovely, subtle tar and anise notes all backed by the mouthwatering acidity I was after.

Truth is it was a perfectly good wine. I scored it a solid 87 points, barely sellable in today’s point beholden marketplace but PERFECT for me this evening. It was exactly what I wanted, what I needed to salve my wounds and nourish my soul and anything better, richer, or more complex would simply have been lost on me, a waste on a wasted man.

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I ate my dinner and drank my bottle, exhausted, and now slightly drunk I made my way to bed happy. Oh so happy.

You see sometimes less  really is more.

Sometimes 87 points are better than 90 points.

Sometimes you want to drink the wine and forget about the points.

Ponder that this holiday weekend and have a great Fourth of July!

Yeah that steak is pretty perfectly cooked, thanks for noticing. Hardwood charcoal in the dark, but I used to do this for a living.

Gregory Dal Piaz

Community Manager

Snooth.com

June 24, 2009

From the Cellar - Beaujolais

posted by Gregory in Snooth, Wine

Weird title right?

Who pulls Beaujolais from the cellar you might ask. Well I do but I can’t say I’m a leader in that field. In fact several of my friends have rather varied assortments of Beaujolais resting in the deep recesses of their cellars and through their generosity I have come to know the wonder of aged Gamay.

Wines are strange beasts, they start life as one thing and frequently morph into something completely different with age. Gamay in particular seems to really transform itself in the cellar, which is a bit of a surprise as Beaujolais, what most of us think of when we think of Gamay, starts out life as an easy, quaffable, cherry berry delight with little to no promise of improvement.

However, after several years in the cellar wonderful things happen. The fruit both fades and morphs into something gamy and wild with more than a passing resemblance to Burgundy of a certain age.  One of the consequences of this transformation is that the fruit become less flamboyant and more transparent allowing the minerality of the terroir to express itself.

It is somewhat bizarre to think of but Beaujolais with age perhaps expresses its terroir as well as any other wine, maybe even better than any other wine. For me these aged examples of Beaujolais combine the fruit quality of Burgundy with a terroir that recalls some of the finest plots of the Northern Rhone,those granite rich bands through St. Joseph and Cornas in particular.Not a stretch when you consider that Beaujolais lies right in the midst of these two famous wine producing regions.

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While I have had Beaujolais older than the wines tasted for this post I think these wine represent the peak along the ageing curve for most of the wines, which is to say about 6-12 years after the vintage. All four wines showed very well with several characteristics in common; a certain Asian spice note, a seamless, delicate texture, transparent fruit and wonderful and refreshing mineral tones.  If this sounds like something that would appeal to your palate do yourself a favors and seek out a few examples of aged Beaujolais to try or just lay down a few of the affordable beauties for your future enjoyment!

Here are 4 examples from my cellar.

_-2-1.jpg1996 Domaine j Chamonard Morgon Le Clos de Lys

Pale dried rose petal color, earthy looking

Funky, earthy, Burgundian nose, intensely smoky with notes of medicinal floral tones, tea and baked wild cherry and medicinal mineral tones, intense stuff! Some dried Asian spiced beef notes dried orange peel

Soft and almost lush with plenty of acid and only a whisper of tannin supporting the dried strawberry fruit. And mandarin orange notes There are nice background notes of mossy earth, tea and Asian spice chocolate on the midpalate with a fresh brisk floral and red berry finish of moderate length.  A very savory and yet curiously fruity wine with solid length. 89pts

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_-1.jpg2002 Earl Louis & Claude Desvignes Morgon Cote du Py

dark ruby with a beige cast

A tight noise with a very fine tobacco tone, mineral notes, and a hint of violet all backed up with tight wild berry fruit, opens rather nicely revealing tea, mint,  moss and wild berry tone with some ferrous minerality.

Soft plush and full of gentle fading fruit edged in brown spice and roast fruit tone, some dried apricot up front and still has a nice touch of tannin adding depth, nice and fairly full with earth tone and a brilliantly mineral backend that leads to an almost salty vivid finish the acid here really pops with some air, lifting the fruit like a one pole circus tent and accentuating the earthy front end but this is still a mineral bomb on the back half and into the finish then there is a lovely return of spicy, briary fruit. Killer right now. 92 pts
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2003 Duboeuf La Trinquee Julienas

Cedary and woodsy with a touch of zinfandel like briar here, there is a lovely wild cherry jam tone but no too cooked and subtle note of graham cracker and waxy lipstick with a white pepper spice edge.

Soft and sweetly fruity up front with nicely integrated acidity and some very attractive wild red cherry fruit and hints of baking spice and herb. Really mirrors the aromatics. Has some slightly aggressive tannins still that lead to a bit of a woodsy finish that is cut short by an earthy, beet rooty tone which gains traction on the mid-palate after about 30 mins. A touch clumsy at times but still perfectly intact and enjoyable. 85pts

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2003 Coudert Clos de la Roilette

Quite pale and bricky with quite a bit of sediment

Very herbal, and balsamic on the nose with sweet fruity wax lips candy tones and huge notes of macerated flowers, game, earth, violette pastille and stone absolutely captivating aromatics that are sweetly fruited yet savory and earthy and complex.

The entry is almost slick in it’s seamlessness then the structural elements help add some texture with the bright acids adding cut and the fine tannins grab to the earthy, wild cherry, dark toned fruit. There is a lurking spiciness here, almost medicinal and lovely notes of flowers, herbs and exotic fruits like persimmon then this turns a bit lean and austere on the backend but with impressive length and even a bit of drying tannin and mucky cologne on the finale. Really long. Perhaps still a bit young too! 92pts

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So the short of all this is that these wines are wonderful with some age on them and they absolutley defy our expectations. Time to change expectations folks so buy and cellar some Cru Beaujolais. You will be justly rewarded!

Gregory Dal Piaz

Community Manager

Snooth

June 15, 2009

Beaujolais it ain’t all Nouveau

posted by Gregory in Snooth, Wine

So naturally what I mean by that title is,that much, if not most, of the wine from Beaujolais is wonderful stuff marred by the phenomenon that is Beaujolais Nouveau. The marketing concept of producing wines in a blaze of forced glory, and using techniques that make the wine a shadow of it’s self, has propelled this particular wine to the tops of recognition, if the bottom of appreciation. Beaujolais is now a wine to drink from Thanksgiving until perhaps Christmas, as a novelty, the first wine of the year, and without thought, since this particular interpretation of the wine offers very little stimulative value in that realm.

So what then am I talking about? I am talking about the Beaujolais that seems at times to have more in similar with the great Burgundies that grow just to the north than other wines based on the Gamay grape. Wines that have a wonderful purity of floral scents, violets and roses, that compliment their slightly herbal stemmy notes and crisp, direct fruits. Wines that speak with a fine transparency, allowing the grape, terroir and winemaker each to have their say yet have no voice obscuring another. OK, that last line could be used to describe any great wine.

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Hey did you see that point I made right there?  Yes I called Beaujolais a GREAT WINE, it ain’t all Nouveau you see. So we spent 2 weeks here at Snooth tasting through a dozen wines in an effort to share with our members the wines that together make Beaujolais a region worth exploring. Our tastings included simple Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages and the crus so that, together, we could learn just what the labels on the bottles mean.

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Our second weeks tasting was more casual in nature as a group of us tasted the wines and exchanged thoughts in a freewheeling round table. In such a setting it was more difficult to get a real handle on each persons thoughts but there was a consensus that emerged. Now this is a bit of a different take, on basically the same wines, since we had the wines with some light food, wonderful cheeses, olive scented crackers and mixed nuts.

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In this setting the best wines continued to shine, The consensus top wines were no surprise. Roughly in order they were:

2007 Vissoux Pierre Chermette Brouilly

2007 Thenevet Grain & Granite Regnie

2007 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie

2007 Domaine de Billards Barbet St. Amour   

2007 Georges Trichard Chenas    

What was a bit of a surprise was that all the other wines found fans from the simple Pizay to the ethereal and gently fruited Lapierre, each wine made someone happy, though the wood on the  Jadot was still off-putting. About that Jadot, in fact the second go-round had a 2006 in place of the 2007. The wine was all together more appealing even if the wood remained obvious. Perhaps the vintage’s character, perhaps a sign of the benefit one can derive from ageing Beaujolais a bit.

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In the coming days I will dip into my cellar and take a look how a few bottles of Beaujolais are ageing, 2 from 2003,  and one each from 2002 and 1996. Beaujolais is full of surprises yet one thing that will not surprise me is if these wines are wonderful and bear and even more striking resemblance with Burgundy! On that old canard, while Beaujolais may, or may not, really resemble Burgundy one thing is for sure. For $20 one can certainly drink a whole lot better in Beaujolais!

And without further ado allow me to relate what it was we discovered. I’ve included my notes below and an impression from each of the tasters that participated in our first weeks blind tasting.

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Beaujolais Blind Tasting

Flight 1
2007 Chateau du Pizay Beaujolais

A bit stemmy-spicy on the nose with hints of earth, roses and a marshmallow edge. Soft pure raspberry fruit and nice zesty acidity make this a nice basic Beaujolais and a light red perfect for serving with a chill this summer. 85pts

Philip – strawberry, good structure
Lance - strawberry, mild spice
Baratunde – butter and smooth
Dave – flat, lost me at the end
Sophie – quite fruit forward, almost sweet,
Evan - indistinct, herbaceous on the palate

2007 Chateau du Chatelard Beaujolais Villages

Coming from gentle hills with a bit of rocky terrain this smoky, tobacco scented Beaujolais Villages is a step up from simple Beaujolais. This is a bit mineral toned on the palate with a bit of forced, extracted tannin that adds a touch of bitterness to the otherwise dried herbal, strawberry flavors. I bit too inky and blocky for my palate. 83pts

Philip – gamier, tobacco
Lance - not very complex, didn’t hold my interest
Baratunde – sharp and mildy spicy
Dave – chalky, strawberry,
Sophie – mineral, younger vines
Evan - fuller and actually sweet

2007 Vissoux Pierre Chermette Brouilly

Brouilly is the largest Cru in Beaujolais. Chermette produces natural wines and this is a beauty! A bouquet full of violets, crystallized black raspberry, rich forest soil, and aromatic candle wax leads to a gorgeous palate full of sweet fruit. This is wonderfully precise with great balance and a tense crisp, tannic note that frames the wonderfully transparent fruit. On the long finish a hint of medicinal herbs adds depth to the fruit and finale return of violets. Beaujolais doesn’t get much better than this. 92pts

Philip – lot of fruit, floral violet, topnotes
Lance - mild sweet fruit, liked the finish
Baratunde – sharper, dryer,
Dave –cherry candy, violets
Sophie – softer fuller approachable style
Evan - rich nose, , earthiness that I liked

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Flight 2
2007 Domaine des Terres Dorees Jean-Paul Brun Cotes de Brouilly    

The Cotes de Brouilly is located within Brouilly, on old volcanic slopes and generally produces deep, dark fruit. This is decidedly herbal and stemmy on the nose with medicinal floral tones and hints of green peppercorn and juniper. Rich and well balanced in the mouth with noticeable fruit tannin balanced by a nice acid spine. Some woodsy notes recall the nose and are joined by black berry and black currant fruit. This finishes with a touch of Ricola and is bit shorter than I would like but is complex and complete. 88pts

Philip – simple fruity, a little iron on the finish
Lance - a bit spicy on the nose, nice finish
Baratunde – medicinal, hot
Dave – strawberry, bitter cola
Sophie – strange milk chocolate lactic Cadbury nutbar, firm and enjoyable tannins
Evan - tea tannins, earth, raspberry

2007 Thenevet Grain & Granite Regnie

Regnie is the youngest Cru of Beaujolais, dating from 1988 but is part of the historic home of Beaujolais. This has superb aromatics with balsamic, candle wax tones almost verging on eucalyptus with a roast meaty edge and layers of intense and complex violet pastille and wild berry fruits. This smells like old vines. This has big weight but is not weighty do to the incredible balance and precision that makes for lovely depth of fruit with a raspberry, slight roasted strawberry tone yet crystal clear transparency. I love the quality of the tannins here, they are soft and like flannel, mouth filling. A nice mineral wash cleanses the palate and leads to a long finish that ends with a wild strawberry flourish. This is simply great Beaujolais! 94pts

Philip – mushroom, black cherry, blood
Lance - , tea flavor, good
Baratunde – woody, toopia
Dave – violets, white pepper ripe cherry
Sophie – rich fruit on the palate, savory, thyme
Evan - more herbaceous, raspberry in the back of the mouth


2007 Marcel Lapierre Morgon

Morgon produces rich, earthy wine that can easily be mistaken for Burgundy. Lapierre is a great biodynamic producer. This offers up notes of beet roots, dusty earth, anise and aggressive herb and medicinal notes. With a very light, natural and elegant in the mouth this is refreshing but quite herbal and almost vegetal on the palate with a decided green streak and some granitic minerality but not much fruit. 84pts

Philip – vegetal, mineral, earthy dry finish
Lance - smoky nose, mild but complex
Baratunde – fruity
Dave – raw meats, white pepper, raspberry
Sophie – soft light fruit on the palate, lots of Gamay character
Evan - candy cherry nose, very flat, almost watery

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Flight 3
2006 Christophe Pacalet Chiroubles

Chiroubles comes from vines at higher elevation that produce delicate wines and Pacalet’s minimalist style of winemaking preserves this ethereal quality. A touch funky on the nose with a gamy edge to the wooly, wet cotton, rainwater tones that feature an intriguing touch of dried thyme. This is a bit more structured in the mouth with lots of sweet yet indistinct fruit that is slightly pruny. It is very aromatic in the mouth but a bit short on the finish. 86pts

Philip – – mushroomy nose, tobacco, plums
Lance - lemony nose, nice balance and fruit,
Baratunde – soft and gentle feel on the nose, gummi bears
Dave – really perfumed with sweet resinous flowers, gamy and attractive
Sophie – high toned floral nose, savory finish is cool and sleek
Evan - nose hit me, leather, cherry, hint of tar in the background

2007 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie

Fleurie is always one of my favorite Crus, full of plush, deep fruit that takes a couple of years in the cellar to peak. Once one gets past the noticeable hit of sulfur this is dark and slightly resinous on the nose with bark and fruit tones in a masculine, cologne-scented register that includes a touch of campfire and very lovely subtle vegetal tones and medicinal herbs. In the mouth this feels a touch closed at first but with mouthwatering acid and hints of bright red fruits and red currants with a nice iron edge. The youthful tannins are a touch stiff and pop on the finish with a touch of almond nuttiness that offers contrast to the nice dark fruit return with it’s touch of fig and darker cherry fruit. A bigger style of wine but complete if a touch blocky at the moment. 89pts

Philip – smooth and supply, cherry notes
Lance - dusty nose, good forward fruit
Baratunde – did not like, chemical maybe sulfur
Dave – sour ripe cherries, black currant, medicinal
Sophie – odd nose pencil lead/shaving, fairly Gamay,
Evan - black tea spice, berries, soft tannins


2007 Jadot Chateau des Jacques Moulin a Vent 

Moulin a Vent produces low yielding vines and powerful wines from rocky soil in the north of Beaujolais. This is sweet smelling with predominantly woodsy tones of white mushroom and gardenia. There’s lots of fruit on the palate, which is a bit sweet though an herbal edge offers a bit of relief from the onslaught of prominent black gapey fruit. This ends with a bit of an extracted matte feel and some wood tannin that mars the finish and adds a bit of bitterness. 84pts

Philip – a lot of butter and oak on the nose
Lance - grassy, rosemary, chalky finish
Baratunde – acid, maybe lactic
Dave – black currants long finish
Sophie – not as expressive, nice but ambivalent
Evan - burnt cherry, hint of toasted wood

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Flight 4


2007 Duboeuf Chateau des Capitans Julienas

Julienas produces elegant and spicy wines from a region that gets its name from Julius Caesar! This is dusty and mineral with a big bay leaf tone and a touch of seared beef but it lacks some liveliness. On entry this is fiercely acidic for this ripeness yet very simple with big black fruits. This finishes with some chemical notes and I can’t say that there’s much here for me to like. 80pts

Philip – Bovril, tight at first, leather but now it’s plain cherries
Lance -– tobacco nose, black currant cinnamon,
Baratunde – very strong overpowering cherry
Dave – very ripe cherry, vanilla, black olive
Sophie – sweet black cherry and licorice excessively candied viscous
Evan - not much, hints of candy, soft tannin


2007 Georges Trichard Chenas

Chenas is the smallest of the crus, many of the vineyards that formed the appellation are now part of the Moulin au Vent appellation. With waxy red fruits, dried apricot, blond tobacco, spicy, wild red berry fruits, a touch of tea and a hint of dried cranberry on the nose this is compelling to smell. The mouth feel is suave and smooth with lovely tannins nicely balanced with bright acids. There are strong cranberry tones on the palate with a touch of tea that is nice and measured and leads to a finish that has good length and offers a hint of cherry pit bitterness that adds cut, This is not super complex but a style I really like to drink. 91pts

Philip – nice nose pine needles and foresty, riverbed,
Lance – spicy, a bit woody, tannic on the finish
Baratunde – very spicy a lot of pepper
Dave – lush fruit, toasted nuttiness, and diluted texture
Sophie – lighter nose a touch vegetal, more tannin not completely well integrated
Evan - – gaminess, toast, sweet mixed berry


2007 Domaine de Billards Barbet St. Amour

St. Amour combines great fruit, spice, structure from the northern border of the region. A romantic choice!

This starts out reticent on the nose with an underlying natural sweetness of dried raspberry fruit and just a hint of earth and spice with a touch of grassiness. Fairly fleshy and round in the mouth with lovely depth. This is fairly powerful yet transparent and really bright with wonderfully precise fruits that lean to the black cherry, black currant end of the spectrum. The finish is really long and fruit driven but refreshing with a lovely final of almost gamy wild fruits. This read more…might be a touch dilute but the appeal is undeniable. 91pts

Philip – very plummy, fruity throughout
Lance - floral nose, seemed young, didn’t open up much
Baratunde – deep dark plum
Dave – gamy raspberry, prune, and cherry
Sophie – feels muted and dilute, hard to taste, at this
Evan - hint of cherry with toast, earth tobacco

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Gregory Dal Piaz

Community Manager

Snooth

June 9, 2009

Alba Wine Exhibition 2006 Barbaresco tasting notes

posted by Gregory in Snooth, Wine


While this is a follow up post to my 2005 Barolo tasting notes, which can be found here, these wines were actually tasted first. The intro to the Barolo post hold some valuable background information as to the style of the tasting and the limitations that imposes on the ultimate value of these notes.

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92-93

Cascina Saria (Neive) -  a really penetrating pine note balances some mulling spices on the nose, the perfumes of the fruit are really deeply embedded here but the quality, ripe and slightly wild, gamy, and spicy berries is very attractive, there’s a touch of dusty ash top note, , really attractive nose -  a bit thick for the first second then rich and focused with great, pure fresh red fruit, really wonderfully ripe tannins and fine acidity that supports the precise ripe earthy raspberry fruit, great persistence, a really great showing, very clean 92-93

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Cascina delle Rose Rio Sordo (Barbaresco)  - clear fruit, a touch smoky but elegant, cherry in alcohol, soil, spice, limestone, white earth, nicely layered with a touch of raspberry and green sap wood, very cool and crisp on entry, nicely proportioned with deep fruit edged in spice and earth tones, there’s a nice tension here but the tannins do grow and gain the upper-hand on the mp though the fruit sort of red currant/ raspberry toned, does fight through, nice tarry, licorice spice tones on the backed lead to a long finish which has flashes of sweet berry fruit, earth, herb and spice, 91-92

Pertinace Marcarini (Treiso) - porcini, truffly, a bit woody, unusual but interesting, with an animale fur note to the spicy rosehip, a nice nuttiness too, hazelnut with a touch of nougat, smoke, this has a really attractive entry with ripe, clean, precise fruit, the mp gains a bit of layered depth, very nicely done with elegance and style, bitter cherry, wild raspberry, a hint of medicinal bitterness, tannins superbly managed, classy wine 91-92

La Ganghija (Treiso) - sauvage, spicy, earthy, pine cones, dried flowers, deep and intense with leather, dried berry, savory tones, full and nicely rich with good flesh backing the ripe tannins, the fruit is a touch dark and towards the earthy end of the spectrum with a lovely vein of bitter cherry fruit that carries through to the long finish which shows a nice tension between savory tones and fruit 91-92

Terrenostre (Treiso) - a touch funky but friendly with a bit of wet dog, soft subtle fruit, transparent, lovely oystershell tones and ranier cherry fruit, with a real nuance of blood orange, precise, classic feel, medium bodied, transparent on the palate as well with subtle strawberry and blood orange fruit, a bit simple but very attractively styled and easy to drink even today, fresh and clean on the bracing finish with a lovely floral note that carries 91-92

Albino Rocca (Alba) - this is great on the nose with deep oily herbs, drying grass, fine precise forest floor, mushroom, and small berry fruit ones -  polished, glossy yet so fresh with mushrooms right up front, fresh cut white, a touch of bitter roots, very refreshing, very pure with a fairly elegant if slightly rustic feel, very nice and pure if slightly bitter fruited finish, good length 91-92

Cascina Luisin Sori Paolin (Neive) - pretty and citrusy with kafir lime leaf, amarena cherry, very focused, very lean and very pure, a bit softer in the mouth than expected from the nose, nice tannins are really crisp and the acidity is very well integrated, this is a more subtle wine with layered and nuanced fruit, lots of detail on the mp with a lovely bitter cherry and wild strawberry fruit tone and a background of funghi, savory and forest floral notes, lovely cleansing finish, excellent length 91-92

Angelo Negro Basarin (Neive) - wooly, green, herbal, crisp lovely fruit then a touch too much diesel sulfur, the underlying fruit smells really crisp tense and fresh with tarry, oily herbal notes, big and powerful with sweet ripe tannins, lots of depth, very young but packed with potential, a touch monolithic and dark but with nice harmony in the mouth and a naturally ripe feel, nice finish with a hint of fruitiness popping out on the finale, a powerful wine 91-92

90-91
Produttori Torre (Barbaresco)  -  so clean, smells like sand and old bones with some freshly picked raspberries and a touch of roasted bouquet garni, cool, crisp and focused with essence of strawberry right up front then followed by earth tones and a crisp hint of violet, very bright with well managed tannins, there’s a hint of eggshell and a touch of licorice bitter on the backed adding tension to the fruit, aggressive finish, with a long menthol finale, 90-91

Pietro Rinaldi San Cristoforo (Neive) - bit sharp and aggressively balsamic, forest floor, Christmas spice, a touch of chocolate mint, obviously terpene woody, spicy, a bit of smoked, sweet ham – slightly sweet entry, then very focused with a nice lean yet well fleshed feel, no fat but nice inner mouth tension, tannins are fine if drying,  lots of crisp wild berry fruit, well balanced and well done, finishes with strong tannins but plenty of backing fruit, good length 90-91

Ugo Lequio Gallina (Neive) -
nice nose, toasty spiced, more French oak than fruit with tons of cinnamon spice but lots of fruit as well, enchanting nose with subtle layers of fruit and spicy, a nice sweet entry before finding focus though this is a very well fruited wine, rich almost chewy fruit has a really nice profile with ripe herbs and strong strawberry tones, a bit muddled perhaps but  with even a nice orange peel note on the finish leading to a long spiced, wild berry fruit finish, some drying tannins, 90-91

Fratelli Giacosa Basarin (Neive) - a fair amount of oaky spices but backed up by some very nice fruit, really beautiful pool of raspberry coulis smoke and tobacco that subsumes the oaken spice, adds a balsamic tone and really just perfectly balances the oak if you don’t mind oak,  a touch lose at first then finding excellent focus with nicely forestall balsamic fruit, fresh and transparent with slightly monolithic fruit, but clean and fairly deep wild raspberry fruit tones, tannins are very well managed and the finish has a nice orange rind tone that really caries through on the long finish, has elegance and finesse 90-91

La Contea Ripa Sorita (Neive) - lovely floral notes greet the nose,  this has really nice incense notes on the nose, fresh and downright pretty with building notes of licorice and medicinal spice, fresh and precise in the mouth with fairly deep and very fresh red berry fruit, a touch of peach and lovely soil tones keep this engaging though it lacks the depth of the best wines it still has great purity and a lovely slightly minty/sage finish with crisp fine grained tannins and good length 90-91

Battaglio (Neive) - cherries in alcohol, slight green herb, reticent but showing some hints of very nice potential, really nice presence in the mouth, bright and vibrant with great acidity and fresh fruit that is taut and tight yet has lovely balance and freshness, turn slightly drying on the backend and lacks the complexity of the best but his will be a deliciously pure bottle of wine, lovely rosehips, and dried cranberry on the finish 90-91

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Ca’ del Baio Valgrande (Treiso) - lovely nose this has it all, spicy, full of ripe fruit, savory tones, soil, limestone oyster shells, full, rich and round with a very ripe tannins this is soft and full yet has acidic verve, lovely bitter cherry fruit, a slight astringency plays with the sweetness of the fruit, tastes of mineral and earth, finish is clean and brisk, could use more length, actually is fairly short, still very nice 89-90

Fontanafredda Coste Rubin (Multi Commune) - spicy, sausage, sausage casing, black pepper, richly fruited, very cherried, a bit fuller but still medium with a slightly chewy feel to the darkish black raspberry fruit that shows nice almost salty minerality, tarry, brisk, not terribly complex but with very good purity, really strong finish with lovely purity to the fruit which is transparent and allows the mineral and spice tones to shine through. 89-90

Cantina del Pino (Multi Commune) - deep and penetrating with   herbal, weedy tones that show off the peachy berry fruit very well, there is a bit of cola sweetness here but there’s also a ton of that attractive, herbal complexity – very soft in the mouth with a lovely bitter cherry, apricot pit tone to the fruit, nice chalk and medicinal tones follow with herb and floral notes leading to the finish which is brisk and transparent, a touch rustic but very attractive 89-90

Poderi Elia Serracapelli (Neive) - very high toned floral and game notes with sweet spiced plum fruit, little raspberry dusty, delicious start nicely ripe tannins, a touch tarry but with very fresh acidity and nice solid earthy fruity tones, really good length, nice slightly chunky tannins on the finish with good length and a plumy/ raspberry return 89-90

Ressia Canova (Neive) - brisk, salty with background wood sweetness, turning woodier but then with some nice seashells for relief, just a bit too much wood at this point, a touch tarry, crisp entry, ripe raspberry and peach skin fruit, a touch of tree bark, with nice underlying minerality, a nicely austere wine, very well done, with a classic fruit profile on the backend, brisk bricky and cleansing through the moderately long finish 89-90

Tenuta San Mauro (Neive) - more masculine on the nose with lots of dried rose, earth, touch of minty spice, clean and menthol cool, sweet lingonberry cranberry fruit up front, a leaner style with vibrantly sweet fruit but of a less sweet king, a bit simple but with god purity and juicy, fine tannins are rather soft for the vintage, a pretty wine with a lovely aromatic wood finish and really good length to the golden raspberry finale, 89-90

Fattoria San Giuliano (Neive) - Very earthy, roast meat, candy, sassafras, fairly noticeable oak, underneath has some drying grass freshness, and camphor, nice mouthfeel, a bit matte but fresh with a bit of a compressed feel, not terrible fruit but rich with earthy, savory tones and a touch of wood, very nice in this sort of non fruity intense way, needs time but will be a very nice wine in a masculine, earthy style 89-90

88-89

Moccagatta Bric Balin (Barbaresco)  - cedary, sweet sassafras notes, lighter nose with a fleshy, muddy medicinal tone, lots of licorice and bitter root tones, big and fairly powerful with a nice deep core of fruit, tannins are a bit finer grained than many though still a touch aggressive, nice peachy tone to the fruit,  finishes with the tannins really grabbing hold but there is nice purity to the fruit here, not terribly expressive but intriguing, with a real nice bitter cherry tone on the finish 88-89

Molino Ausario (Treiso) - a touch gamy and musky with an intense dark fruit and spicy herb nose, a bit sweet perhaps but with nice backing freshness, wood comes out with air, nice and cool, then matte and opaque on the mp, pretty well balanced, nice wild cherry and raspberry fruit, a bit of coffee here and some bresoala savory tones as well, finished with a very strong menthol note, impressive wine, but a bit matte 88-89

Molino Teorema (Multi Commune) - woody, hard candy fruitiness, chocolate – very cool and crisp and tense with dark fruit, lacks some detail but has power and depth, really tannic on the finish, sacrifices same detail and elegance for power but in that style quite good, 88-89

Fratelli Barale Serraboella (Neive) -
apricot, really strong apricot and cinnamon, baked stone fruit, roses, lovely if slightly atypical nose, bright and crisp with very fine but abundant tannins, the mp is a touch austere with sandlewood and red currant notes, a touch of austerity keeps this really fresh and a nice mineral note lead from the back end to the cleansing finish, a touch short but very typical 88-89

87-88

Carlo Giacosa Narin (Barbaresco)  - woody, then roses, bitter roots, bitter berried fruits, touch of exhaust - sweetness on entry, lean with a bright acid backbone, refreshing with nice raspberry toned fruit, a bit stern but very nicely put together with a drinkable, attractive character, minty on the finish with some dried tarragon notes and a nice wash of raspberry 87-88

Pertinace Nervo  (Treiso) -
vanilla, dirty, oystershell, dried herbs, savory, dried alpine flowers, subtle but attractive, not fruity, very lithe, really high toned and lightly styled with tender tannins and bright acids, fruit is a bit shallow but pretty with rosehips, strawberry, and hay tones, a touch of menthol, sandy soil notes, very clean and fresh finish, moderate length 87-88

Armando Piazzo (Alba) - nice candied herb nose with sweet fruit lurking, a touch of apricot to the baked black raspberry fruit, lighter in the mouth, not much depth but very bright with nice tension to the dark berry fruit with cactus, herb, and parsley root backing 87-88

Pasquale Pelissero Bricco San Giuliano (Neive) -   a touch of caramel and spice but well integrated wood, cinnamon spiced, very fresh fruit, a little peachy, macerated flowers, a bit of roast meatiness, a little bit of sweetness,  fairly elegant, tannins are a bit prominent but nice and crisp, lovely bitter cherry fruit tone, with some sandalwood and rosehip notes,  finishes with very drying tannins, a bit tough but balanced 87-88

Oddero Gallina (Neive) - rather restrained, slightly meaty, slightly oaky, nice floral tones and some mineral spice lurking, very taut and focused in the mouth, cold use more detail to the flavors but this has harmony with lots of somewhat rounded tannins, good supporting acids, and a nice density on the mp, turns a bit woody and drying on the finish, 87-88

Marco e Vittorio Adriano Basarin (Neive) - rather sweeter aromatic profile though with some animal fur, peppery spice, a touch hot, gentle use of well integrated oak, slightly raspberry jammy, nice clean limestone entry, then a bit loose and matte, nice but a bit dead in the mouth though the black cherry fruit is deep and the acidity refreshing then the tannins clamp down on the finish, 87-88

Fontanabianca Sori Burdin (Neive) - sandy, wild cherry and flowers macerated in alcohol, a touch candied, medicinal and autumnal, lighter, high acid, very rounded tannins, a nice core of bitter sweet raspberry fruit, not the most complex but well proportioned and with nice earthy/savory depth, a bit short finish but a really attractive flavor profile 87-88

Montaribaldi Palazzina (Neive) -
a bit jammy, and flat, closed with hints of very ripe fruit – clean, crisp, nicely fruited and with good balance but noticeably closed. Probably 87-88

Punset (Neive) -  really fine herbal note at first, a touch of bacon and black pepper,  lovely bouquet garni nose,  cool entry, lovely light medium bodied feel, a bit toward the drying grass end of the spectrum, fine granular tannins, good acids, moderately intense fruit,  87-88

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86-87

La Ca Nova Bric Mentina (Barbaresco)  - lovely nose, soft and subtle, cherries in alcohol, mineral tones, rosewater, a touch of old wood,  clay, fresh, crisp, berried right up front with a simple freshness, not complex but not trying too hard either, smaller scaled and true to type, enjoyable to drink even now. 86-87

Albina Rocca Vigneto Brich Ronchi (Barbaresco)  -
very high toned, raspberry, floral, touch of chamomile, baked clay, a little orange zest, low key, nice earthy bitterness up front, soft yet crisp tannins, good acids, subtle easy styled wine, with a powdered sugar toned raspberry core of fruit, a bit rough on the back end with a brief finish but pleasant 86-87

Ca’del Baio Asili (Barbaresco)  - root beer, light, dried floral tones, fleshy, simple – in the mouth this is light and fresh with an easy character and lovely purity to the fruit, nice ripe tannins, integrated acids solid if uninspiring though this gains a nice tarry edge, short finish shows some tomato leaf 86-87

Orlando Abrigo Montersino (Treiso) - deep and intense with limestone backed ripe berry fruit, penetrating and lovely, picks up a meaty tones and rosehips, nice depth but a bit simple in the mouth with nice deep, dark berry fruit and a very engaging mineral aspect, a solid showing if in a slightly softer, more approachable style with a touch of menthol and spice on the finish and growing fruit. 86-87

Rizzi Nervo Fondetta (Treiso) - deep, woody, strawberry tops, dirt, strawberry jam, salame, laundry detergent florality, low intensity if fresh in the mouth with shallow flavors but nice texture, lovely finish, burnished sandalwood, bitter cherry, short and simple but what’s there is attractive 86-87

Rivetto Ce Vanin (Treiso) - almonds, sweet candied tones, jammy strawberry, fat though with some dried herb tones and a hint of citrus peel easy in the mouth, dark fruit, decent freshness, a nice bitter tone adding freshness bitter almond, interesting, very well managed tannins 86-87

Mainerdo (Multi Commune) - dark and medicinal again, spicy strawberry almost jammy fruit, nice and deep if not very complex, wow this is packed with sweet fruit, really pure with subtle complexities but this is all about expressing the purity of sweet strawberry fruit, there’s a touch of cocoa on the back end, which leads to a shortish finish 86-87

85-86

Castello di Verduno Rabaja (Barbaresco)  - lovely nose, sweetly fruited, ripe, intense with a handful of fresh herbs sitting atop a bowl of freshly picked raspberry with a hint of sassafras and espresso adding complexity, a bit matte up front then turning fresher with nice but not exceptional fruit, a bit monolithic with a spicy strawberry tone but not much detail, quite spicy and long with that spiciness but simple. 85-86

Michele Chiarlo Asili (Barbaresco)  - a bit jammy on the nose with lots of cola character, sweet woodiness, root beer, biter herbs, jammy root beer, cool and seamless if monolithic with prominent tannins backing nice bitter cherry fruit, uncomplicated if impressively structured, nice fruit fights to get out on the backend, finishes fairly strong with really nice fruit but bit short, 85-86

Montaribladi Sori Montaribaldi (Barbaresco)  - clean and deep with a cedary note embedded in dark, forest floor scented fruit, polished, astringent frutti del bosco, tobacco, drying tannins but with a decent amount of fruit buffering, quire red curranty, menthol, a bit chunky and even a touch coarse, 85-86

Rizzi Pajore (Treiso) - slightly jammy, cinnamon hint, stemmy, herby, sharp, aggressive, a bit lifeless in the mouth at first then turns a bit more focused but this feels lazy and poorly composed, decent fruit and a really nice finish with sour cherry tones and spice soil notes that is long and drying, this might just need time to pull itself together 85-86

Pelissero Nubiola (Treiso) - jammyish, woody, wood spice, gamy, forest floor, floral, animal, passionfruit, woodsy, polished smooth and soft with nice fruit but not much depth and extracted tannins, really lovely fruit on the finish but the tannins are out of balance here, length driven by the rustic tannins, could improve 85-86

Marco e Vittorio Adriano Sanadaive (Alba) - smoky, dried strawberry fruit, VA, rustic nose, cool entry, herbal, poppy seeds on the attack with subtle strawberry fruit tones leading to a light, bright finish with ok detail, tastes a bit dull 85-86

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84-85

Castello di Morassino Ovello (Barbaresco)  - a bit off with heavy soil tones and dried herb notes, gains sandalwood, rose hips and roses, really opens very nicely, still at it’s core there is some off putting oak and a weird, sweet candied funghi kind of notes – polished and dull in the mouth, again there is the discordant juxtaposition of really good fruit with some bitter wood and terribly drying, aggressive tannins, the fruit is very pretty though and particularly aromatic in the mouth, aggressively tannic finish 84-85

Orlando Abrigo Vigna Rongalio (Treiso) - shy nose, smoky, a touch of oak, really not showing much, a bit fat, a bit flat, fruity, softer style, easy and not very interesting but nothing wrong 84-85

Vigin Noemy (Treiso) -pork products, wood, aromatic, nice if high toned and a touch candied medicinal, moderately big in the mouth with deeply earthy fruit, and nice fruit that shows a nice spice/quinine edge but is a bit matte, finished chunky and a touch clumsy 84-85

Eredi Lodali Lorens (Treiso) - woody, raw wood, touch of caraway, spicy, very spicy, touch hot, violet pastille, big and full, a touch clumsy, dark, anonymous fruit on the mp, dark and anonymous over all, drying, extracted, 84-85

Terre da Vino La Casa in Collina (Multi Commune) - jammy, spicy, a bit woody, normal modern nose with more violet and medicinal but still sickly sweet, nice dark fruit in the mouth, lots of coffee character, nicely managed tannins, bitter sweet, bitter cherry long finish, lots of tannin on the finish, a bit clumsy on the finish 84-85

Prunotto (Multi Commune) - a bit volatile, sandy and jammy, a bit hot, innocuous, not very expressive but fairly well textured, some nice sour strawberry fruit, simple 84-85

Antiche Poderi dei Gallina Vigneto ‘l Ciaciaret (Neive) - a bit stinky, sour meats, soil tones, reductive, a bit lean, a bit sour and simple, might flesh out with time, decent harmony but will always be a small scaled wine, very nice Nebbiolo, lean drying finish 84-85

Castello di Neive Santo Stefano (Neive) - noticeable toasty wood, some nice macerated fruits and flowers underneath but mostly noticeable wood, cool and crisp with good focus in the mouth but overall a muted wine with fairly woody tannins and a nice bitter cherry core trying to fight through, bitter drying finish, 84-85

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83-84

Cascina Brusciata Rio Sordo (Barbaresco)  - coarse, raw woody, penetrating, leathery, rustic, gains a bit of toastiness to the wood and a strong, green quinine tone,  drying tannins, a bit green and raw, dark fruit, clumsy, 83-84

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82-83

Armando Piazzo Sori Fratin (Alba) -
shallow nose, a bit fishy, not much going on, cool and easy, lightly fruited, 83-84

Michele Taliano Ad Altiora (Alba) - candied with deep herbal accents, drying, simple, fresh but not terribly interesting, 83-84

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82-83

Romano Bonino Basarin (Neive) - vanilla and candied violets/blackberry, artificial fruit tones, fake coffee, road tar, much better in the mouth where the fruit veers toward the green and fresh with crisp green notes up front then more artificial coffee and fruit on the mp, some dichotomy on the finish, 82-83

Massimo Rivetti Froi (Neive) -  lots of sweet oak and vanilla pudding on the nose, a bit dried out in the mouth without much of anything but structure, some very subtle rose and raspberry notes, 82-83

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under 82

Cascina delle Rose Tre Stelle (Barbaresco)  - a bit hot, a bit jammy, plenty of green notes and spicy angelica root to give it some freshness but overall it’s heavy and sweet smelling - a bit matte in the mouth, correct medium bodied feel but the tannins seem forced and drying and the fruit is a bit too bitter, and medicinal without freshness or detail, a bit heavy handed, with an extracted finish 80-81

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Giuseppe Nada Casot (Treiso) - dirty barrel, gasoline, fart, dried out, extracted, not much interest, 70-72

Cigliuti Serraboella (Neive) - dirty, old wood, kind of cola character of dirty old barrel, a bit stripped, and bitter, primitive, rustic and drying, totally without charm 70-72

Fratelli Giacosa Basarin Sori Gian Mate (Neive) - a bit stinky at first, then turning sterner and a touch aggressively mineral, a lean angry wine, some nice fruit here but this is indeed a lean angry wine with angular tannins and sharp acidity obscuring much of the fruit, nicely aromatic in the mouth though, 76-77

Punset Campo Quadro (Neive) - sandy, a touch dirty, very chamomile herbal/weedy, a touch chemical, taut and lean and dirty 70

Gregory Dal Piaz

Community Manager

Snooth

June 9, 2009

Is terroir?

posted by Gregory in Snooth

What is terroir. Well it is certainly a point of contention.

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Loosely stated it is a French concept, the entire phrase is ” Gout de Terroir” or, literally, taste of earth, that implies that items, when well produced, express some unique attributes that represent a “sense of place”, a more figurative translation of the phrase.

So what does that really mean? Does it really mean that wines can taste of the minerals in the earth from which their grapes may come? Well the answer to that may be no and yes. You see while there is no scientific basis for these claim, as yet, it is undeniable that, for example, Muscadet tastes of the salty, marine and granite soils from which the wines come. However there is nor salt or granite in the wine so what’s up with that?

A good question but in order to be able to answer it, and in all honesty I will not be able to answer it, we really need to move beyond the idea that Terroir is exclusively this taste of the earth when it is so much more.

At the heart of the debate over terroir is the definition of the word. For my purposes it is that sense of place that certain wines exhibit. When one smells a Barolo from Monvigliero for example one can smell the sandy soil but beyond that there is generally a telltale note of black olive that is uniquely Monvigliero, or should I say Verduno, the village in which the Monvigliero vineyard is located.

There is some combination of soil, climate and vine that produces this identifiable trait in these wines but not in other wines that also come form the Nebbiolo grape. That to me is Terroir.
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So what is up with that? Well a glass of wine has hundreds or organic compounds in it, we can identify only a handful, though each person has his or her own unique  thresholds of perception so don’t be fooled into thinking that we each are able to smell and taste the same things in wine.  Somehow the soil, climate and vines are able to produce unique compounds depending on the  characteristic combination of those three element. These in turn produce the signature traits that are called terroir.

Now I maybe crazy, and I’ll certainly be called out on this, but that means that the terroir of North Coast Pinot in California may be cola flavored low acid fruit bombs. Not my style of wine, allow me an ack! or two, ack! ack!, but that may just be what the unique melange of soil, climate and vine is able to produce.

While I fully recognize that this may run counter to what the wine mafia want us all to believe I think the fact speak for themselves. What the wine mafia want you to believe is that Teroir is all about rocks, and minerals, and fresh fruit. To be even handed about this please allow me a Yum or two, yum! yum!.

This is where the terroir issue gets sticky. One thing is arguing about whether terroir even exists. I’m firmly in the camp that saysit does, but not everywhere, or at least I am not able to find it in every wine. I also fall into the camp that feels that wines that are produced in very warm climates, or from grapes that are allowed to get very ripe, tend to exhibit a dreary sameness of fruit that obscures or obliterates terroir, and let’s not get started on winemaking processes today!

It’s another thing entirely to then go one step further and narrowly define terroir to only include wine one likes, which is exactly what the wine mafia has done. Then they go around intimidating and bullying people they don’t agree with.

ENOUGH!

It’s time to just drink what you like and stop trying to move the immovable object. Let people make their own minds up on this question. I certainly advocate having an opinion and sharing those opinions freely but we need to move beyond the certitude with which we espouse our opinions. Wines are such a personal preference that it is really pointless trying to force people to like a style of wine which they may not like, may not be prepared to like, or may not be in the context to like.

Share information, share opinions, state your case, and then move on. I get it. People who generally drink organic wines from the Loire and Beaujolais are not going to enjoy many big Barossa Shiraz. Conversely those who revel in the pleasure of Cult California Cabernets are just not going to flip over many bottles of Sangiovese, but really, who cares. Let everyone know what  choices we have and then let’s all make our own buying decisions without belittling or insulting those who have made different decisions.

So I started to write a little about terroir and ended up writing a little about wine appreciation as well. Sometimes things are not entirely as they appear and that is just a perfectly fitting note to end this on.

Gregory Dal Piaz

Community Manager

Snooth

June 1, 2009

Snooth celebrates with some older Californian gems!

posted by Gregory in Snooth, Wine

Last night was Snooth-a -thon II and we celebrated in style with some classy Cabernets from the past several decades and a few other gems thrown in for good measure!

Fourteen of us descended on North Square restaurant for another wonderful night of fine food, great service and general debauchery! There was lots of scheming going on, or at least so it appeared: 4189_88815613628_631898628_1807936_7688651_n.jpg

Truth be known there was just a lot of the usual Witty, winey banter going on as we all compared notes on the 17 or so wines in attendance. We started the evening with a pair of whites:

1993 Eyrie Oregon Chardonnay - This had a lovely waxy nose with notes of golden raspberries, cashews and hazelnuts. In the mouth the fruit remains sweet and expansive with bright acids backing up the dried apple fruit tones that lead to a finish with inner mouth aromatics of tobacco and cocoa powder and piercing minerality on the finale. Drink em if you can find them but this is holding superbly. 92pts

1997 Kalin Sauvignon Blanc - With it’s unusual nose of clay and dried fruity marshmallows and minty herbs this was intriguing to smell if totally outside or expectations, but that’s what Kalin does so well. This was rich and quite viscous in the mouth with great tension between the sparkling minerailty and the green gage plum fruit tones that had great resonance. 90pts

After these two starters we were off to the races. I poured a magnum as we took our seats to peruse the menu.

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1978 BV Claret from magnum -  This was dusty and ashy on the nose with light cherry fruit and hints of leather and tobacco. It retains a bright, juicy character and may be simple but is so fresh and simply enjoyable that this was a bit of a surprise. Even at the end of the night, as we scavenged around for remaining wine this retained a lovely roasted berry/cranberry fruitiness that made it so easy to drink, and enjoy. Nothing earthshaking but a very solid bottle. 87pts

1941 Sebastiani Cabernet Sauvignon bottled in 1947 - I have already gone into detail regarding this bottling and you can read more about it here. Tonight we had a bottle that lacked the depth of the better bottles that I’ve had of this wine  with a nose that showed fraying at the seams but still offered up a bit of poopy beet root, black pepper, and deep smoky tones with lots of cigar box and tobacco. In the mouth the acid drew this out and highlighted the small core of slightly chunky fruit with some slightly gritty tannins giving a bit of structure to the wine. It’s fading in the glass but remains a treat to try and completely drinkable. 86pts.

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1974 Stag’s Leap  Cabernet Sauvignon - This was rocking this evening with a sweetly earthy nose full of sweet middle eastern spice tones, green olive, beef broth and dark berry fruit. This is still superbly fresh on the palate with silky smooth polished tannins that float across a sweetly fruited black cassis and olive toned mid-palate with a hint of rusticity that shows itself in the slight animale tones that lead to the long finish. A brilliant wine 95pts

1985 Charles Krug Vintage Selection Cabernet Sauvignon - From magnum- This was pumping out pure black currant fruit with a deeply herbaceous almost grassy edge and notes of ace bandage adding complexity. For all it’s herbal tones on the nose the palate showed masses of bright, juicy intense fruit with fairly substantial tannins backing up all that richness. The finish is nice and long with black raspberry tones and while this really is a bit simple it is so exuberantly fruity you have to love it if you love Cabernet! 91pts

Next up was a horizontal from 1986. In general I am a big fan of these wines, they are great examples of California Cabernet in their prime and along with 1985 offer some of the greatest values on the market today.

1986 Inglenook Cask Selection - This was very pungent, brothy and evolved on the nose with like flavors in the mouth. Past peak and a victim of mishandling along the way.

1986 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon - A nice dose as ass leather great the nose but behind it this is very clear and pure with black currants, eucalyptus, and soil tones.  It’s dense and chewy in the mouth with solid supporting acidity and tannins that remain slightly chalky. It’s got great length and comes off as a particularly sinewy, muscular example of Sonoma Mountain Cabernet that may benefit from another several years in the cellar. 91pts

1986 Rutherford Hill XVS Cabernet Sauvignon - This still has a touch of vanillin on the nose along with black raspberry tones, mint, a hint of stemminess and a touch of wood spice. In the mouth this is incredibly vibrant with a very precise, chiseled feel and lovely rosemary stem tones that help frame the black berry fruits. the tannins are mostly resolved but add support to the fruit giving the wine nice volume in the mouth. A great time to drink this! 91pts

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After the great 1986’s we took a bit of a detour with two wines on their own.

1989 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace - From what is widely regarded as a crappy vintage comes this surprisingly appealing wine that speaks more of Diamond creek than the crappy vintage. Lightly gamy on the nose with some nice iron tones and deeply spicy earth tones that translate to a lean, focused palate presence with lots of leathery tones but nice dark, dried cherry fruit and tea notes as well.  Neither a power house nor a sweetly fruited wine but rather a wine built on Bordelais sensibilities. 89pts

1995 Teldeschi Zinfandel - This provided a real break in the action with it’s sweetly fruited nose that retained a bit of nougat and spice from the wood but had great, spicy brambly blackberry fruit. Big, round and plush in the mouth with lots of slightly roasted plummy fruit up front and a great spicy, peppery follow through. Great with my duck breast in port reduction! 90pts

The 1995 Teldeschi moved us from the past into the almost present as we now were faced with some big, badass wines that had a lot of evolving to do!

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1996 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon - Much like the 86 this had a wonderful nose with cassis and herb in harmony and gentle backing tones of wood spice and eucalyptus. Big and chewy in the mouth with superbly refreshing acidity that prevented this from becoming ponderous. This seems a touch hot and short at this moment though the wine is packed with fruit and tannin that are very well managed so this should have a long life ahead but tonight it is a touch diffuse. 90pts

1995 Cornerstone Beatty Cabernet Sauvignon - This has a huge chocolate and raspberry nose with tons of backing spice/gingerbread notes and integrated french oak tones.  Rich and polished in the mouth yet at the same time this is restrained and transparent like fine strawberry jelly. Impeccably  well balanced for such a fruit driven wine. Really fabulous modern Cali Cab with mouthfilling sweet patisserie notes and a long, spicy finish with lingering hints of ginger and vanillin. 94pts

1999 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon -  Smoky and deep on the nose with alot of oak showing but lots of muscular, extracted fruit too. This is super TIGHT in the mouth with big structure showing excellent balance but this is all about potential at this point so I’ll give it a conservative 90pts with the warning not to touch this for another 5 years at bare minimum!

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My finale wines of the night were two great vintages of Chateau Montelena which shared such a resemblance that they became quite the topic of conversation!

1990 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon- This is just classic Montelena with it’s notes of seared black cassis mingled with spiced oak tones and a hint of green anise seed. In the mouth it’s smooth and seamless with full, ripe round tannins and gentle hints of tomato leaf and herb framing the deep black fruit tones. Lovely wine and with a bright future. 92pts

1999 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon  - This is very young and still heavily marked by oak on the nose with a fudgy quality that detracts from the rich, jammy fruit. In the mouth this has great balance with good mineral cut on the finish but the wood intrudes here as well offering a bit of bitter tannin on the finale that needs several years to resolve itself. Nothing wrong here just too young. Give this another 5 years or so and it should reveal much better definition to the fruit. 91pts.

And that was our night, well most of it anyway. Some of us ventured out into the evening for a few additional drinks where the conversation turned to hiccups, oral indiscretions and hookers but that’s a story for another night!

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I just want to thank everyone who came and contributed to making this another great evening. I had a blast and can’t wait to do it again. Well actually give me a few days to recover but I’ll be ready soon enough. In fact I have to run now to a business dinner where we’ll have to drink 1997 Fontallorro, 1997 Flaccianello, 1996 Oddero Vigna Rionda Barolo, 1996 Pira Marneca Barolo…

That one hardworing

Gregory Dal Piaz

Community Manager

Snooth

Photos by Brooklynwino - Thanks Steph!