April 30, 2009

Mashable panel at 92YTribeca

posted by philip in Snooth

Mark and I spoke at a panel on “Lessons from the Local Startup Community” held by Mashable at the Tribeca 92Y.

It was great to speak alongside some great companies: Behance, SavvyAuntie, Aviary and of course Mashable. Our slides (just 3 of them, as we were trying to be short and punchy) can be seen here. Our key points were:

  • A startup is like a race car - not only is it fast, its likely to break after 500 miles, and to get anywhere on your limited resources (time, money, manpower) you need to focus like a laser.
  • When you are a new startup, its hard for an outsider to tell if you have any prospects, as a result getting the first deal is key. To close that deal, you do what it takes: beg, borrow, negotiate, compromise.
  • With software most of what you’ll need already exists, and its generally free (open source). Leverage what you can before you start building things that you could have picked up from elsewhere.
  • Get involved in your community, give back and help others - be it geographically local (NYC and San Francisco for us), or thematically similar (wine and open source for us). Not only is it beneficial to the company, its the right thing to do.

No audio unfortunately, so let me know if anything’s unclear in the slides.

April 27, 2009

Petite Sirah California’s unsung hero - Part 1

posted by Gregory in Snooth, Wine

 Say Wha? You say? No it’s true, well as true as something like this can be.

Petite Sirah, aka Duriff, has toiled in anonymity for years. It’s a solid blending grape and has added punch and color to some of the greatest bottles of jug wine ever to come out of California. It survived prohibition being a thick skinned solution to shipping woes.  While Petite Sirah has had trouble gaining a following we are at least blessed with these old vine beuties, much of them dry’farmed, head pruned relics of a day gone by.

This stubborn vine that refuses to quit has a bit of a mixed past. A cross of Peloursin and Syrah, and named for it’s resemblance to the “petite” clone of Syrah, Petty is slowly establishing itself as a premium Wine and earning the respect it deserves. From the first varietally labeled bottle, Concannon’s 1961, to today’s broad range of  producers, it’s been a long, slow journey.

So we have we arrived? Never before have so many high quality Petites been available, and at such reasonable price points. One of the beautiful things that Petites offer are tremendously long drinking windows. For example, last night I enjoyed a 1987 Louis Martini Proprietors Reserve Petite Sirah that remained purple and rich with just a hint of development. If you had told me the wine was a 2004 I would not have been surprised. The wine continued to offer wonderfully ripe, round fruit in classic PS style and had just a subtle layer of tertiary complexity enhancing the black pepper spice and earth note the wines are famous for.

When young Petite Sirah has a rich yet chewy texture and a nice peppery note to the black berried fruit. There can be an almost starchy green note that seems to stick around for a few years in some cases and of course there is the black color. In the mouth the wines almost always have wonderful acidity and surprisingly modest alcohol, figure 13.5 to 14%. This results in a wonderfully drinkable yet large scaled wine, perfect for barbecues and grilling.

And the knock? Well the wine are not the most complex and while there is some development with age the appeal here is really that wonderful fruit. I’ve had some exceptions, old Ridge, Stag’s Leap and  Stevenot, that were more complex than I would have imagined, but when a Petite is right, and balanced, I can forgive it’s lack of hyper complexity. After-all sometimes one just wants a damn good bottle of wine that one doesn’t have to think about to enjoy. And if that’s what you’re looking for I urge you to take a look at Petite Sirah!

Petite on a budget

_mg_1437.jpgsr-25.gif1) Bogle 2006 California Petite Sirah $12 13.5%

Very sweet, tarry nose with plenty of ash, wood spice and cream notes. Fat and formless on entry then shows some bright acid that supports purple fruit with a nice brambly edge. Lots of fruit and flavor if very simple. Tannins are relatively soft and show through a bit more on the short finish that shows a fair amount of unintegrated acid. 83pts

~

_mg_1420.jpgsr-35.gif2) Lost Angel Central Coast Petite Sirah 2006 $15 13.5%

A nice nose that combines a bit of wood with chocolate twizzler, candied black cherry fruit and a significant vegetal/fermented tea tone a touch of black pepper and a hint of barnyard.  Sweet entry but the wine has nice focus with very ripe tannins and acid that pulls this into the sour cherry/sour plum and blueberry end of the fruit spectrum.  Refreshing feel and there’s lots of fruit to back it up. Perhaps a touch  sweet but in a crowd pleasing style. 86pts

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ff_petitsyrah04_th.jpgsr-35.gif3) Parducci Mendocino Petite Sirah 2006 $12 13.5%

A nice note of cured meats with a strong tea note then some spicy wood tones and plenty of white pepper tinged black plum and crystallized black berry fruits and even an edge of dried rose. Inky on the palate with an extracted feel up front. Nicely tannic with good supporting acids and a definite milk chocolate and toast top note to the black fruits. This thins out noticeably on the mid-palate turning a bit dilute yet redeems itself with a moderately long finish with a bit of spice complimenting lurking blackberry fruits with a lovely brisk mineral finale that cleanses the mouth. Not fruity and eminently drinkable 87pts Barbecue Quaffing Value!

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Paso Robles Petite Sirah

sr-4.gif_mg_1433.jpg4) Vina Robles Jardine Petite Sirah 2006 $24 14.9%

Very black spiced nose with plenty of anise tinged medicinal, tarry, wood spice, a hint of toasted coconut and jammy boysenberry fruit with a starchy green top note.  Rich and chewy in the mouth with plenty of polished tannin yet plenty of fruit to buffer it, in fact this is very well balanced for it’s size. Black raspberry and dried plum notes are nicely complimented by the spicy wood nuances and a strong black tea note. Finishes with a more typical cherry vanilla tone and a strong tar finale.  A lot of depth here but at a very early stage in this wine’s evolution. Feels inky yet polished and refined so I expect this will improve with a few years in the cellar. 89pts

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sr-4.gif_mg_1436.jpg5) Victor Hugo Petite Sirah 2006 $24 13.8%

Nice nose, spicy oak clove and ginger notes with a hint of black pepper, black cherry, lime leaf, anise seed, touch brambly.  Sweetly fruited entry then puts on a fair amount of structure with lots of ripe tannins and balancing acidity. This is a touch spicy and has an accentuating note of vanilla  over big grapey fruit with a touch of leather and earth on top. Nice finish is just a touch rustic and tannic but with good length and appealingly earthy tones and a touch of blueberry fruit and perhaps a whisper of chocolate on the powerful, raw finish 90pts

~

_mg_1424.jpgsr-45.gif6) Eos Estate Petite Sirah 2006 $20 13.5%

Very chocolaty nose with white pepper, cured meats, ground coffee and dried cherry tones.  A little bit of sweet tea and flowers in the background,  lots of complexity but in a fresh, clean style.  Real polish on entry with the acid on top of fairly rich  fruit with nicely enmeshed tannins. Nice fruit here, definitely not a sweet style but with nice fresh black cherry and black currant tones.  Really well balanced and fresh feeling this doesn’t seem tiring to drink. A touch inky and blocky on the fairly long finish that offers up nice hints of tea, candied orange peel and licorice. 91pts

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Lodi Petite Sirah

_mg_1438.jpgsr-4.gif7) Harney Lane Petite Sirah 2006 $24 15.8%

A bit jammy with powdered sugar tones and a bit of evident heat on the nose. It smells earthy, dense and not particularly open with a strong grilled meat and black pepper salami nose.  Drying and like a black hole in the mouth but with surprising elegance.  Pretty tight at this point and one can only extrapolate where this might go but it has tannin to burn yet possesses a wonderful mouthfeel. Even the finish is more about intensity than actual flavor but there seems to be plenty of dark berry fruit hiding behind these lovely  crisp tannins but man they need time to mellow. I wouldn’t be surprised to see this really blossom in time. Today a tough 88pts but promising.

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_mg_1442.jpgsr-4.gif 8) Judds Hill Petite Sirah 2005 $30 14.5%

Classic petite nose of dark fruit, earth, autumnal vegetal tones, beet root, cola notes touch of wood, gamy, raw veal, sweet black raspberry candy, the wood gets the upper hand though.  A bit soft on entry and fluid through the midpalate but there are plenty of tannins that clamp down on the finish. This has a real chocolaty tone in the mouth and there’s big ball of dark cocoa tinged  fruit lurking but the wood treatment is a bit heavy at the moment leading to a chocolate and mint marshmallow finish. 88pts

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_mg_1441.jpgsr-451.gif9) Mettler Petite Sirah 2005 $20 14.2%

Deep nose has nice notes of crushed currants, spice, tree bark, red currants, earth, clay, and subtle medicinal/menthol tones with a hint of curing tobacco. Big and bright in the mouth with the depth and richness that PS can deliver yet very little fat or flash. This is  deep and plush with  muscular fruit and ripe tannins. There’s a floral almost rose like note in the mouth with lots of earthy spice framing the black currant and mulberry fruit.  Really well balanced particularly since the simplicity and rusticity of PS has not been entirely finessed away. Lovely freshness with a nice licorice/menthol medicinal tone and plenty of milk chocolate notes on the moderately long finish. Embryonic but super stuff even now. 94pts  Wine of the night!

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Napa Valley Petite Sirah

_mg_1417.jpgsr-451.gif10) Stanton St Helena Petite Sirah 2006 $45 14.5%

Wow this has fine fruit tones on the nose with wonderful depth. This is very ripe yet not over-ripe with well integrated toasty oak and nuanced floral tones as well as notes of ink, blackberry liquor/syrup, macerated flowers, cedar, vanilla minor note, musk, bitter roots and earth. Polished yet big and round. Slippery in the mouth but in a good way with excellent balance and old-vine intensity. The flavors are layered with sweet boysenberry/blueberry fruits dominating the palate and minor notes of spice, herbs a subtle vegetal/green bean tone, shaved bitter chocolate and espresso crema tones. A great crisp finish tops everything off. 92pts

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_mg_1414.jpgsr-4.gif11) Girard Petite Sirah 2006 $30 14.5%

Very dried floral nose at first then turned medicinal and earthy with a macerated black plum fruitiness and plenty of spicy berry notes. Soft and juicy with a mouthfilling quality. This is a little loose yet it’s structurally quite sound with lovely blueberry toned fruit and nice underlying wood spice tones that meld perfectly with the fruit. There’s a nice vanilla/bay note that extends to the finish and an accent of chocolate twizzler that turn a bit redder on the finish. The tannins really pop on the finish as well. This needs some time to come together but is an attractive package if not terribly varietal. 90pts

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_mg_1450.jpgsr-45.gif12) Miner  Petite Sirah 2005 $40 14.4%

Inky yet crisp smelling with a touch of sulfur to lose. Smells lightly cherried and very tarry with plenty of prosciutto and grilled meats. Quite elegant in the mouth with a decidedly black cherry fruit profile. Lot’s of tannins but well balanced with a rather refined feel and a distinct lack of extraction which keeps it light on it’s feet. Juicy and focused on the finish. Which has solid length and a nice touch of minerality/chalkiness. A claret styled PS with wonderful fruit and balance destined for a long life. 91pts

~

 

Gregory Dal Piaz

Community Manager

Snooth

 

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April 24, 2009

Bottle Racking

posted by Dan in Wine Industry, Guest Bloggers

In a post earlier this year titled “Winter Winemaking”, I discussed a little bit of the thought process and ensuing vinification activity of a young wine post-harvest.  Now that the majority of our 2008 wines have been blended and are marrying in barrel, it’s (chronological) time to turn our attention to the previous vintage – 2007.   As with our Cabernet and Merlot based wines, the wines will age in barrel from 18 to 22 months before bottling.  We are scheduled to bottle our 2007 Merlot blend and Estate Cabernet in early May.  So, the most obvious and important activity pre-bottling is to remove the wine from barrel and settle it in a stainless steel tank to facilitate the bottling process.  This activity is called racking.

The pre-bottling racking is the final clarifying event for the wine, but also stands for some winemakers as the final blend.  At Larkmead we blend in the first six to nine months of the wine’s life; a philosophy we believe helps the wine harmonize and integrate with itself and the barrel profile, leaving nothing out of balance.   During the initial rackings we will use a centrifugal pump to allow oxygen to come in contact with the wine (an opportunity to soften the rough edges, i.e. tannins) and to force out any remaining CO2.  As the wine ages, it becomes near mandatory not to expose the wine to oxygen, therefore we will move the wine with the help of inert gases.  As pictured,

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we are pressurizing the barrel with Argon in order to gently move the wine to tank (a tank that has been gassed with Argon to displace its oxygen).  Argon is heavier than Nitrogen (which is still widely used for this process) and does not bind to other elements (especially those in liquid).  The process of moving the wine takes about five minutes per barrel (a 60-gallon barrel is the equivalent of 25 cases of wine).  During the last two weeks, we racked with Argon over 250 barrels (or 6,200 cases) worth of wine that we are readying for bottling in May.

Once the wine is in tank, and the headspace is gassed with Argon (to displace any residual oxygen) it is time to take a sample of the wine to test its final chemistry.  The chemistry analysis will determine whether there is any remaining bacteria in the wine that can cause flaws or faults in the wine.  At this point we will be able to make decisions as to whether or not the wine needs to be fined or filtered before bottling.  Fining is the process of clarifying a wine, removing any micro solids, bacteria, yeast and polyphenols (i.e. harsh tannins).  A traditional fining solution would be egg whites.  Today there are also other gelatins that produce positive activity that will bind with the unwanted cells.   Said addition is mixed into the barrel before racking or tank post-racking and then allowed to settle to the bottom of the vessel pulling out the unwanted particles that have remained in suspension in the wine.  Filtering takes fining to the next level. Filtering can play an important role in the production of the final product.  When you filter a wine, you guarantee that the whole body of the wine will be subject to electrokinetic activity that once again helps remove any microbacteria. Fining and filtering can help ‘polish’ a wine by removing its rough edges and improving its texture and clarity.

A History of a Wine’s Chemistry Analysis

Chemistry analysis is an important contributor throughout the life of the wine making process. During the cold soak, we will look at the wine’s nutrient profile, sugar content and acid which will guide us through the pending fermentation and cue us in as to whether we will need to be adding any nutrients to facilitate a healthy conversion of grape juice to young wine.  Once the wine finishes fermentation the standard chemical analysis of the wine will include: pH (the general indicator of acidity in a wine; water is neutral at 7 pH, while white wines will be in the low 3’s and red wines in the mid to upper 3’s; thus acidic); RS (“residual sugar” or the glucose and fructose that remain in a wine after these sugars have converted to ethanol concentration or alcohol; each wine and each winemaker will have their own threshold as to what is acceptable RS in a wine.  We consider our wines to be ‘dry’ (i.e. lacking sugar) at less than 1 g/L.  Late harvest or dessert wines can be judged as such if they have more than 4g/L residual sugar); Alcohol (self explanatory) and VA (or “volatile acidity” which is predominantly acetic acid that is produced by spoilage yeast and bacteria in a wine and can cause the development of unwanted sensory effects.  Wines with high acetic numbers can also cause the formation of ethyl acetate that is a common microbial flaw.  At high levels, ethyl acetate produces the dreaded nail polish remover character in a wine; at lower levels it can produce a potential sweet, richness).

Throughout the life of the wine’s maturation the sulfur levels are monitored and adjusted to preserve the wine.  Appropriate levels of sulfur in a wine during aging will act as an antioxidant and will prevent microbial growth.  The absence of sulfur in a wine and the presence of oxygen is the biggest threat to the wine’s health.  During the wine’s life in barrel, we strive for sulfur levels in the mid-30’s and we will bottle our wines at levels around 25 to 28 mg/L (or parts per million, PPM).

With the basic chemistry established and at acceptable levels throughout maturation, it is now time, pre-bottling, to determine whether or not the wine has any remaining spoilage yeasts and bacteria that produce off character(s) in wine.  The most common ‘flaws’ that develop during primary and secondary fermentation are as follows: Oenoccoccus, a malolactic bacteria that will produce high levels of acetic acid; Brettanomyces is an easily distributed volatile acid, ester and phenol that is responsible for the off-aromas and barnyard flavors we commonly know as Brett; Lactobacilius, another malolactic bacteria that forms during sluggish fermentations produces that buttery character in a wine; Pediococcus is yet another lactic bacteria that can cause textural defects that suppress the fruit character in a wine and prevent the healthy aging of a wine.  The appropriate chemistry analysis of these bacteria will let you know if you have any of these miscreant cells remaining in your wine.  Although some of these cells may be present, there is a good chance that they are ‘dead cells’ that were neutralized during the healthy process of sulfur maintenance.  If we feel that the wine is in jeopardy due to high levels of any of these cells, we will make the decision to filter the wine.

A short cut to checking if a wine has problems is to check its turbidity, i.e. the wine’s clarity or haziness.  Turbidity will help determine whether a wine has any suspended solids.  Those solids may include the yeast cells or the microbacteria listed above; however, as mentioned, those solids may or may not be active in deteriorating the wines.  It is up to the winemaker to make the judgment based on the full chemistry analysis as to whether or not they wish to clarify the wine further through filtration, to finish and polish the final product or to free it from the potential danger of those bacteria attacking the character of the wine.

As I type this, I am happy to report that we have the full chemistry analysis of our Merlot blend, Firebelle. The wine has a pH of 3.9, RS of less than 1g/L, VA of less than 1g/L, Alcohol at 14.5% and no spoilage bacteria whatsoever.  The turbidity of the wine is 25 NTU and we’d like to see that lower than 15; so, we are going to rack the wine from tank to tank because during the process of moving the wine from barrel to tank, it is likely that you will shake up some solids which we are comfortable knowing will settle out once again in the weeks ahead pre-bottling.  So, looks like a near perfect (chemical) wine.  But most importantly, how does it taste?  Well, that is for you to decide when the wine releases January 2010.  I’ll report back in a couple of weeks with a photo essay of the bottling process.  Until then, thanks for reading.

Dan Petroski is Assistant Winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Napa Valley. Dan has an MBA from New York University and worked as an Ad Exec in New York for several years, before switching it up and trading his suit for a move out west

April 24, 2009

Wine of the week - 1994 Ridge Monte Bello

posted by Gregory in Snooth, Wine

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Ok so I’m cheating a bit here, this is not the label of the wine I drank. The label of my bottle was in tatters as it so happens. I bought several cases of this wine on release and thoughtlessly left them in their cardboard cases until, years later, those self same cases collapsed into a pile of damp paper pulp and scarily scarred bottles.

Fortunately the wine in the bottle  was unharmed by all this.

As you might know, and can quickly tell by looking at a typical Monte Bello label this Californian Icon is a classic Bordeaux blend with varying proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot as dictated by each vintages unique conditions. This blend not only affords Ridge some flexibility each year but also, counterintuitively,  accounts for the amazingly consistent and complex performances these wines deliver.

In the case of this 1994 the blend is 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc that came in at a modest but effective 12.7% alcohol, low by today’s standards. While the Monte Bello is frequently included with and compared to Cabernet Sauvignon wines from California it can neither be labeled as Cabernet, nor would it want to be. It has firmly established itself as one of the finest wines produced in this country and it’s uniqueness stems as much from it’s terrior and blend as from it’s production. Forgoing the temptation to bottle Monte Bello as a Cabernet, which would require the wine to be a minimum of 85% Cabernet, and continuing to rely on American Oak barrels almost exclusively have been two risky yet rewarding decisions made at Ridge over the years.

Judging by what happens to the wine in the bottle one can’t really argue with the logic.

1994 was a brilliant vintage for many in California blessed with a long growing season and plenty of hang time for the grapes. The harvest was blessed by a cool spell then a return of warmth during the month of October. This allowed the grapes to ripen slowly and completely while  keeping sugar acid levels in balance and under control. Apon release this was both impressive and deceptive. the balance was so precise that it may have fooled some folks into think the wine was a bit of a light weight. The low alcohol level, only 1995, which was tasted side by side with this, and the 1998 were lower during the decade of the 90’s, may also have contributed to this.

It’s this very balance and natural acidity that today allows this wine to caress the palate and explode in the mouth with such remarkably vibrant flavors. The 1994 Monte Bello has hit it’s peak and it is now offering all it can.The nose needs some time to fully unfurls itself after its stint in the bottle but once it gets going it offers up classic notes of earth and herbs strongly backed by balanced notes of American oak and wild blackberries. There are lovely hints of cocoa powder, spearmint, and beef with enticing top note of forest floor that keeps one coming back for just one more sniff.

In the mouth this is simply spectacular! The mouth watering acids and crisp tannins are in absolute harmony and frame the cassis and blackberry fruit perfectly offering exceptional clarity and a lively, transparent feel.  If one could fault this for anything perhaps someone might consider it to be a touch simple but it’s just to damn fun to drink to worry about that. Someone recently asked for a single word that describes what I want in a bottle of wine. My response? Happiness. This wine is packed with happiness!

So what about that 1995 Monte Bello you ask?

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Well this vintage is an entirely different beast. Certainly more vegetal on the nose with a much heavier overlay of toasty, smoky oak, earth and tea notes. There’s a touch of leather here as well and a more obvious eucalyptus tone. In the mouth the structural elements are both more formidable and less well integrated than with the 1994 and that keeps the wine a bit blocky and short.  The fruit is more towards the red end of the spectrum but continues to be dominated by the tannins which turn a bit drying towards the back end. This needs time but it lacks some of the purity and elegance that propels the 94 to such heights.

It was a treat to try them both and a not so subtle reminder that I don’t own enough Monte Bello. I’ve been on an older California wine kick as of late. Many of the wines from the 70’s, 80’s and even early 90’s represent the greatest values in the marketplace today for sheer fun! I intend to keep buying up what I can and sharing when I can.

If wines like these interest you please take a look at our plans for an mature Californian wine dinner coming up Sunday May 31st here in New York City. I hope you can join us but if not stay tuned for a complete report.

Gregory Dal Piaz

Community Manager

Snooth

April 22, 2009

Snooth becomes World’s Largest Wine Site

posted by AdamL in Snooth, Press

Surpasses industry leaders 2 years after launch

New York, NY (April 22, 2009) - Snooth, a global hub for wine aficionados, today announced key metrics that establish the site as the largest online wine destination in the world.

Since its inception in June 2007, Snooth has grown to over 500,000 users per month, with over 1 million wines and prices from 11,000 merchants and wineries worldwide. The site currently handles over 2 million searches per month and has over 125,000 registered users.

Snooth’s traffic and membership, as reported by third-parties and by the companies themselves, is now larger than industry veterans Winesearcher and Cellartracker.

“Snooth was founded to create order out of the fragmented and often incomplete information about wine on the Web,” said Philip James, founder and CEO. “As we build the site, we’ll continue to add new social functionality, integrate more reviews and tasting notes from sources around the globe, and provide realtime market intelligence back to the industry. In two short years we’ve accomplished a lot and we’re pleased our users are responding so positively to the experience.”‘

The site plans several new rollouts for the coming months, including food and wine pairings, continued partnerships with handpicked editorial outlets, as well as writing from trusted voices such as Wine and Spirits Magazine.

About Snooth

Launched in June 2007, Snooth is a highly interactive, social database of the world’s wines, offering both casual and expert wine drinkers the ability to search, obtain personalized recommendations, interact with fellow wine lovers, as well as seamlessly buy from a global network of over 11,000 merchants.

Users have the ability to search by their own personal preferences (bold, peppery, fruity, etc), by a specific meal-pairing, price, or by region or producer. Snooth’s recommendation engine also provides customized selections based on stated preferences and user feedback. The more information a user gives on wines they enjoy, the more personalized and detailed the recommendations become.

Please visit http://www.snooth.com for more information.

April 20, 2009

Russian River Valley

posted by John in Wine, Guest Bloggers

The movie Sideways did as much to promote California Pinot Noir as it did to vilify Merlot.  Some people would argue that Pinot was already on a rise but a little advertising doesn’t hurt.  One region that has really benefited from the rise in popularity of Pinot Noir is the Russian River Valley.  For many wine enthusiasts Russian River Valley is synonymous with Pinot Noir.  While the Russian River Valley has its own style it could be said that the Russian River Valley is the Burgundy of California.

Geography 
As the name suggests, the Russian River Valley Appellation is an American Viticulture Area defined predominantly by the depression created by the flow of the Russian River.  The river is the flows southward from Mendicino County parallel to Dry Creek Valley, through the town of Healdsburg and finally turns westward where it flows out into the Pacific Ocean.   The AVA is characterized by rolling hills with some deep valleys.  The slopes face a number of different directions which means the amount of sunlight can vary dramatically.  This creates pockets of unique geography.  Now there is a condition where the cool breezes that flow in from the Pacific Ocean each night (thoroughly explained in Sideways) are easily felt.  The AVA is a mere 10 miles from the Pacific Coast at its closest point.  Combine the terrain and the cool breezes and it becomes clear why a person will experience significant changes in temperature within a few miles of each other.  As we like to say in California the region blessed with numerous microclimates.

Russian River Valley AVA

As many regions in the US, the wine growing history is divided into pre-prohibition and post-prohibition.  The pre-prohibition history has the area producing as much as 500,000 gallons of wine.  While it cannot be determined exactly when the first grapes were planted and harvested it is well documented by 1870s the region was known wine production with more than 7,000 acres planted with grapes.  The region was moving along nicely until prohibition was instituted.  Prohibition basically halted all wine production in the area.  It wasn’t until the 1960s that wine production in Russian River Valley really started up again.  It was then that Bob Sisson, the University of California Farm Advisor for Sonoma County, urged many of the local farmers to start planting grapes.  In fact, we could call Bob the father of Russian River Pinot Noir as he was the one encouraged the local farmer to plan Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, cold weather grapes he believed would flourish in the region.

The Russian River Valley AVA was created in 1983 and has been adjusted in 1987, 2003 and 2005.  Unlike Sonoma Valley and Napa Valley, the Russian River Valley isn’t as well defined geographically.  The AVA is bordered on the north end by the Russian River and its valley.  To the north the AVA is Dry Creek Valley.   The east border is the Mayacaymus Mountains (Knights Valley AVA and Alexander Valley AVA).  The west border is coastal mountains (Sonoma Coast AVA) and the south border is the town of Sebastapol (Sonoma Coast AVA).

Sub-appellations include Chalk Hill, which is warmer and dryer than most of Russian River Valley, to the far east of the appellation and Green Valley (or Sonoma Green Valley or Green Valley of Russian River Valley), located in the southwest corner is of Russian River Valley, is the coolest and wettest part of the region.

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Grapes and Wineries of Russian River Valley

According to the Appellation America website there are at least 40 varieties of wine grapes grown in Russian River Valley.  However, the ones that are the most important and most well known for the region are: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and Zinfandel.  Because of the numerous microclimates it is possible to grow a wide variety of grapes.  In fact, in Chalk Hill sub-appellation you are more likely to find Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cab Franc than Pinot Noir.

Again, according to Appellation America website, there are 170 wineries based in Russian River Valley and 353 wineries producing wines with the Russian River Valley appellation.  There is a approximately 15,000 acres planted in the region and it keeps expanding.

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Why should you care about Russian River Valley?

Russian River Valley is as important to California as Napa Valley.  While Napa established California as a competitor to French wines, Bordeaux in particular, Russian River Valley has show that California can produce Burgundy wines as good as the French.  Is the Russian River Valley the Californian equivalent of Burgundy?  Not exactly.  The major grapes are the same but the styles are different.  Red Burgundies display significant earthiness and acidity whereas Russian River Pinot Noirs display perfumed aromas with delicate red cherry flavors.  White Burgundies and Russian River Chardonnays are more similar than the reds but differ in the ability to age.  Although, this is a broad generalization Russian River Chardonnays are better in their youth and White Burgundies can age much more gracefully.  However, the thing that really separates Russian River Valley from Burgundy is the fact that Russian River Valley also produces elegant wines produce from Syrah, Zinfandel and also produces very high quality sparkling wines.

If you are in California and want to experience something a little different than Napa you should consider a trip to Russian River Valley.  There are a large number of great wineries and restaurants.  If you want to make a trip, drop me a line and I’ll share some of my recommendations with you.

Websites:

Russian River Valley Wine Growers

Northern Sonoma Wine Road

Russian River Travel

Appellation America

John Andrews is a software product manager during the week and is a professional Tasting Room staffer at Loxton Cellars in Glen Ellen, CA on the weekends.

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April 17, 2009

Starting next week: Jancis Robinson’s Bordeaux Futures value picks

posted by philip in Snooth, Wine, Partnerships

Jancis Robinson is truly one of the finest wine writers alive. As a fellow Brit, and having graduated with a similar degree from the same University, Oxford, (Maths and Philosophy for Jancis, Chemistry for me) I’ve always had an affinity for her writing, which reminds me, through its style and structure, of the country that I left behind when I moved here.

I found out recently that she was not only awarded an OBE (an honor signifying Officer of the Order of the British Empire) by Her Majesty the Queen, but that Jancis advises Her Royal Highness on the royal cellar.

With that said, we’re very pleased here at Snooth to be partnering with Jancis to bring you her views on the 2008 Bordeaux Harvest as well as her picks of the more affordable 2008 Bordeaux (less than $30).

You need to be signed up to Snooth and receiving our emails to take advantage of this extremely timely news. Keep an eye out for it over the next few days and weeks.

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To those that don’t know of Jancis Robinson’s work I recommend the following: The Oxford Companion to Wine and the World Atlas of Wine, both staples on the desks of us here at Snooth. The atlas, in particular is a stunningly beautifully illustrated work. Finally, JancisRobinson.com, the home of the excellent Purple Pages - a ‘must read’ stop on your daily travels.

April 17, 2009

Winemaking Techniques: Disclosure and Regulation

posted by Dan in Wine Industry, Guest Bloggers

Friends of Snooth, not much of a blog here, but hoping to get some forum-like feedback.

Last week on the “eBob” bulletin board a question was posed regarding the marketing of wine.  More exact, the disclosure of winemaking techniques (with regards to its marketing).  The concern of the post was whether or not it is ethical to present a wine with all its romantic ideals coming from a particular place if the wine was manipulated to taste in such or such a way.

The style of a particular wine was not in question, but how the winemaker achieved his or her goal, and if it is appropriate, for educational purposes, to be discussing these practices if they are part of the process.

The Devil’s Advocate debate was: does it really matter?

Will disclosure actually diminish one’s perception of wine?  Will there be buyer’s remorse or more importantly, will you not purchase a wine that used fish bladders for clarifying purposes or added water and acid during fermentation to achieve optimal results?  [Note: the addition of water and acid during fermentation not only can produce more of a wine, but also can lower potential alcohol levels and help produce a healthy fermentation if grapes are harvested, over-ripe, slightly dehydrated and out of balance.]

A similar, political example to this is: last year, you may recall the outcry against Brunello di Montalcino producers who were cutting their wines with juice from other regions of Italy to alter the wine’s taste and/or production levels.  Remembrance of this issue can be found here.

Governments have gotten involved, wine has been confiscated and as a result consumers are stuck holding an empty bottle.  But has your taste and enjoyment of these wines changed?  Do we need Governments to get involved to protect against these indiscretions?  If you once enjoyed Brunello and stocked your cellar with some, do you now feel cheated? Are you heart-broken?  Are you smashing bottles of Brunello and dumping them down the drain?  Are you not buying Italian wine anymore because one is a reflection of many?

There are many questions to be asked about this debate of disclosure and many opinions to be heard.  On the subject of regulation, in the recent issue of Decanter an interview with Tom Black, a Tennessee businessman, mammoth collector and investor in Alto (the NYC restaurant) made a pinpoint argument against regulation.  He says, and I quote, “We scream free trade to the world but don’t allow it.  I’d let people buy direct from the winery and have it shipped home.”

On the Parker boards regarding the above disclosure debate, the ugly comment was reared, “[you assume] the geeks that inhabit this forum resemble the normal wine consumers.”  I hope not to degrade anyone reading this by reposting that comment, but let’s hear it – what are your thoughts about disclosure and/or regulation?

April 8, 2009

Taste, Taste, Eat, Taste

posted by Dan in Wine Industry, Wine, Guest Bloggers

Since my Tasting group of hard-hitting Sonoma County Pinot Noir producers somehow disbanded last year, I have taken it upon myself to fill the void in various ways.  First and foremost, as my friends in the Valleys will tell you, when I have a cocktail party at my house, it is always accompanied by a theme – for example, an 80’s NYC Art Scene Gallery Exhibition Opening when guests were requested to wear black, white or a combination of both and cheap white wine and cheaper sparkling wine was served over white and fluorescent orange hunks of cheese; or a Gatsby themed party where Prohibition era cocktails were mixed and silos full of Champagne were consumed.  Hosting a traditional dinner party or pot-luck is also an engaging option for wine geeks – whether it be regional focused (with accompanying foods) or vintage focused.  A recent dinner party at my house contained a face off of a 2006 Sancerre (Alphonse Mellot Edmund) vs. the 2006 Larkmead Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc.  The red portion of the program contained two 2000 Bordeaux second labels (Mouton’s Chateau D’Armailac and Leoville-Las Cases’ Clos du Marquis) and two 2001 Italian wines, Terralsole’s Brunello di Montalcino and Pira’s Vigna Rionda Barolo.  The reds weren’t a precise theme, but it opened up the palates of us Cabernet focused Napa Valley types.

Over the last couple of months, I was fortunate to organize a blind tasting of 2005 Cabernet’s from Napa Valley (a work event to compare Larkmead’s wines from said vintage to some of the ‘cult’ Cabernets garnering lots of attention and even higher price tags).  I posted a forum note, here on the site, and reviewed the wines.  More recently, I was fortunate to be pulled into another Cabernet (blind) tasting to, once again, gauge a wine (this time a new wine to market made by Thomas Brown of Schrader fame) and how it compares to relatively similar wines and their price points.  While I was in NYC last month working at our distributor tasting, I had the good fortune to get out from behind the table and taste a few of the Int’l imported wines that you’ll see in New York restaurants and retail but may not necessarily make it out to the West Coast (esp. the wine stores of Napa and Sonoma).  These trade tastings happen pretty regularly and are free of charge, all you need to do is have a good relationship with a wine shop owner or restaurant wine director and ask if any trade tastings are coming up – when and where. [Ed. Note: I am sure the Snooth team can help on this one, hint, hint. Get connected, good wine drinking will follow!]

After the NY tasting I had the good fortune to sit down to dinner with, in my opinion, one of the top wine enthusiasts and generous fellows I have ever met.  He organized a dinner where ten people gathered at Little Giant on the Lower East Side and we uncorked 21 wines that were brought by said fellow and friends.  (Below is a list of the wines and my half-crocked tasting notes, of which I posted on this site - if the wines were in the Snooth database.)

In an ‘event’ like this, it is obvious that the wine will overshadow the food and the company and conversation will educate you beyond the bottle.  I definitely feel this dinner (among similar others I had in the past year+ with this fellow) rank up their with some of the incredible tastings and dinners organized by Snooth’s own, Gregory Dal Piaz.  Keep thanking him for his generous notes and tastings!

So, if anyone has read Gregory’s posts, and are reading this, I do hope that you have that itch of a drunken desire that prompts you to organize your own wine tasting, cocktail party, dinner party, blind tasting, theme drinking, BYOB drinking, etc., etc.  In these recessionary times, there is no better way to spread the resources around than to encourage your family, friends and work colleagues with a relatively low cost BYOB night of drinking under the pretense of this or that theme.  Which reminds me, something that has been lingering in the ears and mouths of my friends is the 80-point blind tasting.  We have all had our fair share of poor reviews and we all feel blotted by them.  It is our hope to uncork the bottles, raise the glasses and to enjoy the heck out of these wines that may or may not have become second-class citizens based on someone’s third party review.  It will happen soon and I will let you know when it does; but, in the meantime, it would be great to hear about what is inspiring you to gather and gulp some of the good stuff.  It may inspire us all to make the best with what’s around.  And by the way, I invested in a couple of restaurant wine dinners recently and was pleasantly pleased with the week’s worth of food and wine that accompanied a price that would be close to the retail value of one or two of the wines that were consumed on the night in question.  Return on investment very high in some of these dinners – so, check your resources, something too good to be true will be on the horizon, I am sure of it.  Eat well, drink better and let us know what you have been tasting!

-

Little Giant Dinner
March 24, 2009

Domaine de Croix 2006
Beaune, 1er Cru, Pertuisots
- Youthfully subdued nose, opens to a soft, supple aromatic midpalate; elegant use oak that translates on the finish.

Domaine Humbert Freres 2006
Gevrey Chambertin, Premier Cru, Poissenot
- Textured nose of cherry-aspirin pill box sweetens undertones of earth and mushroom; a hint of cola on the palate broadens to a bitter cherry finish.

Wind Gap 2006
Grenache Booker Vineyard Paso
- A bit overripe, masking tell-tale Grenache rusticity and texture; however, surprisingly refined on the mid-palate with a soft, supple tannins that dry out quickly.

Wind Gap 2006
Syrah Sonoma Coast
- Intense Kalamata olive nose; stemmy to a fault (?).  However, luckily, more impressed with the aromatic mid-palate but can’t get over the nose!

Larkmead 2002
Solari Reserve Cabernet
- Rich, luscious, sweet, tannin and acid.  Vanilla, cream, dried herbs, black tea and Asian spices.  Tastes like a Jolly Rancher when compared to the Canon.

Ch. Canon 1982
St. Emilion
- Signature BDX nose (some said “Brett,” I say “Terroir”); Cedar, cherry, eucalyptus; bitter cherry finish.  Or as we discussed: the Grande Dame at the ball, wearing Chanel, sweating a bit after the Waltz, returns to the table after powdering her nose.

Realm 2006
To-Kalon Vineyard
- An Oakville nose of dusty, textured fruit; creamy mouthfeel, vanilla, sweet and succulent with a weed (i.e. hempy) finish.  Elegant and refined tannins, a nod to good winemaking in the 06 vintage.

Realm 2006
Dr. Crane Vineyard
- Similar (identical oak ?) mid-palate to the To-Kalon under a darker, more brooding nose and off-putting, astringent tannic finish.  Finishes a little hot with similar hempy character of the To-Kalon – may say something about the barrels used.

Carlisle 2007
Zinfandel, Montafi Ranch, RRV
- The warm, inviting nose.  Teasing.  Powerful, explosive fruit wrapped in a creamy core.  Lull’s you in and then throws you a spliter of astringency on the finish.  Leaves you wanting to redeem yourself (or it).

Paul Jaboulet Aine 2003
La Chapelle, Hermitage*
- Elegant and balanced.  Soft and polished.  Focused purity.  Meat.  Fruit.  Cream.  Acts I, II and III.  Runs you up the tree.  Offers you the options to get down. And finishes with happily ever after.

Chapoutier 2003
L’Ermite, Hermitage*
- Reggie Jackson circa October 1978.  Power, structure, consistency.  A true champ.  Highlighted with a bit of verve – spice, menthol, mint.  A spectacular finish.  Lingering in the memory.

* Hard to beat these two wines.

Domaine Robert Arnoux 2007
Vosne-Romanee, 1er Cru, Les Suchots
- “Pretty”, soft, subtle sweetness on the nose that dominates the wine.  A little shy in the mouth but finishes with some tell-tale, “I want another sip” acid.  Needs time to balance a bit.

Domaine Jaques Fredrick Mugnier 2004
Chambolle Musigny, Bonnes-Mares
- Best representation of a mood based wine.  Intriguing in exotic kind of way.  Dark and brooding; best consumed on a rainy day because the acid and tannin promise the spirit of sunshine in the future.

Domaine Prieure Roch 1995
Vosne-Romanee, Les Suchots
- Shockingly still fruit forward.  Dark, rich and elegant midpalate balanced with fine acidity.  Not necessarily noble, a bit more rebellious.

Clos Saint Jean 2005
Deus ex Machina, CdP
- One of the most intense wines (in balance) that I have ever tasted.  It’s richness is kept in check with layers of purity, complexity and texture. This wine bleeds terroir and passionate winemaking.

Clos Saint Jean 2006
Deus ex Machina, CdP
- A bit off-putting - the roller-coaster ride of a young wine’s evolution in bottle.  Unlike its previous vintage, the wine is a bit more linear (laser like fruit focus with more expressive alcohol); oak influence rearing its ugly head.  Overjoyed to have tasted it, but some infanticide took place with this wine.

Clos Saint Jean 2005
La Combe des Fous, CdP
- Best in show.  Dark and brooding at first glance.  Soft and succulent as you get to know her.  Balanced and perfect when you walk away thinking about her.  The wine’s concentration and intensity is focused throughout the experience. Never wavering, cannot find a flaw in this wine.

Domaine La Barroche 2005
PURE, CdP
Youthful.  Tight.  Showing its extremes - high-toned fruit focus, vegetative and black olive (whole cluster), a little too much alcohol becoming raisin-like; shy on its potential.  Would love to revisit.

Domaine de la Mordoree 2005
La Plume du Pientre, La Crau, CdP
- Similar to the PURE, needs time.  It’s port-like character shows hints of intense, concentrated complexity.  Remove its chastity belt in ten or twenty years and this wine will be a knock-out.

Domaine Gustave Lorentz 1983
Gerwurztraminer
Shockingly fresh.  Clarity is remarkable.  The pineapple and malic character is stunning.  A refreshing way to re-liven the palate after luxurious red wine consumption.  I would drink this nightly to count sheep in the spring-time pasture happily.

Dan Petroski is Assistant Winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Napa Valley. Dan has an MBA from New York University and worked as an Ad Exec in New York for several years, before switching it up and trading his suit for a move out west.

April 8, 2009

Last nights presentation to NY Tech Meetup

posted by philip in Snooth

Last night Mark and I presented to around 700 people at the NY Tech Meetup - this was the first time we’ve presented to that crowd, and having sat in the audience many times and seen people literally get booed off the stage I was excited and a little nervous to stand in front of you all.

We followed a company that was told that “they didn’t have any tech” and we’re told to get off the stage, while the audience hissed. With blood in the water and the sharks circling, I took the stage, while Mark showed off the site.

5 minutes isn’t a long time to get across everything that Snooth offers, but we gave a whirlwind tour - interrupted by a few rounds of spontaneous applause (one for our searching for ‘Spicy cali cab thats good with beef‘ and the other for the vintage analysis charts by region, Knights Valley, Sonoma in this case).

The feedback was great - you can see some of the comments here and here:

“Snooth … made it worth going”

“Snooth looks great (wine is not easy!)”

one of the best presentations and deep knowledge expertise at NY Tech Meetup last night - http://www.snooth.com/

At the NY Tech Meetup watching cool presentation by http://www.snooth.com wine info with amazing database & terrific reviews. Check it out!”

Snooth.com - slick wine search/database (yelp for Shiraz)”

viewed a great quick demo of snooth.com last night and have newfound appreciation for its service. i heart nebbiolo”

Thanks a million to you all for listening to us speak, it was a pleasure and we really enjoyed hanging out at the end and meeting so many of you.