The Art of Blending

posted by Dan in Snooth, Wine, Guest Bloggers

At Larkmead Vineyards we have a Tasting Room. But as our venerable, resident raconteur and Winery General Manager likes to say, we don’t normally give tours to visitors because we don’t have antique cars or a fancy art collection, we have wine that we believe speaks for itself. That being said, there are occasional groups of tasters that get a short tour through our cellar. I am welcoming of these visitors and when wine work is at a minimum, I’ll direct the tour myself. I find this a great opportunity to interact, answer questions and add insight to the tasting experience. The visitors range in wine knowledge and appreciation, but I have found some consistent themes to their questions, even reading the questions on their face if they are too embarrassed to ask them. Since our portfolio of wines contains two Bordeaux style blends, the question of blending – the how and why – seems to almost always emerge. So, I thought it would be a great opportunity to dish our secrets to the wine drinking public who don’t have the chance to taste at our winery in Napa Valley.

First and Foremost, the Vineyard.

Currently we have ten grape varieties planted on our vineyard estate. The five “noble Bordeaux” varietals: Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. And Sauvignon Blanc. As well as Zinfandel, Syrah, Viognier and Tocai.

Our vineyard is Cabernet dominated with 60% of the 113 acres planted. We produce wine from less than 50% of all the grapes we grow, selling the remainder to other wineries, the largest buyer being Duckhorn. Since our brand has been growing in popularity, we intend over the next couple of years to evaluate the opportunities that demand will afford us - consuming more of the vineyard’s fruit for our own winemaking. However, at our current production levels (<10,000 cases annually) we are comfortable with the quality of our wines and will only hope to increase our production if we can maintain a high level of quality.

Our Wines.

Our total case production is distributed amongst five dominant offerings and two small scale bottlings. The top five include a white wine, Sauvignon Blanc, and four reds. The red wines are split between two blended wines and two (wholly) Cabernet based wines. One blend, Firebelle, has Merlot at its core, while the other, Salon, Cabernet. Each year the focus remains the same with the blends, but the composition will change based on the quality of the fruit (i.e. different grape types) during the vintage year. Thus the question I am often asked: how do we decide on what goes in each bottle and why? A big part of the answer is in the previous sentence.

Harvest and Vinification Techniques.

Here’s some insight. Our vineyard is designated to 40 parcels, one as small as half an acre and one as large as six and a half acres. Our vineyard has three distinct soil types - sand, clay and loam (a mixture of sand and clay). And in each of our parcels we employ different rootstocks as well as different clonal selections, different pruning and trellising. For Cabernet alone we have planted eight clones throughout the vineyard on three different rootstocks and employ two pruning and trellising methods. Last year during harvest, we (the Larkmead winery) completed 22 pick days and fermented 30 individual wines (seven of those wines were co-fermentations that including Cabernet-Cabernet, Cabernet-Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc-Petit Verdot). The free run from the fermentation is drained to barrel and the press wine (light and heavy) from the must is managed separately. Throughout primary alcoholic fermentation and post-Maloactive fermentation (in barrel) we taste the wines regularly. The goal of the tasting is to, for lack of a better word or phrase, rank the wines. Thankfully there is a winemaker, my boss, who has a ten-year history with the estate which affords him preconceived ideas as to where the wines will end up in our portfolio, but each year we see movement in the blends and Cabernet based wines. The reason for the movement in large part is based on the taste of the wine, and in a lesser degree the wine’s chemistry.

Blending.

When we are tasting the wines we are looking for three major components: the purity of the fruit (aromatics, mid-palate and finish), the texture (tannins and acidity) and the complexity (depth, nuance, et al). The chemistry of the wine (pH, acidity, residual sugar, alcohol, etc.) will play a role in balancing the wine for taste and stabilization. But the role of taste plays the most integral part in the final blend.

We are fortunate to have such a diverse vineyard site that allows us to make complex wines. On a macro level, our 40 parcels are broken down to three regions that are divided by a road (Larkmead Lane) and a river (Napa River). The block west of the Napa River, totally planted to Cabernet, produces very aromatic, bright fruit wines; while the block east of the River tends to produce wines with more depth, concentration and structure that provide a brooding character. For example, our Estate Cabernet which is the bulk of our production (almost 50%) will have in upwards of 10 to 12 of our fermented Cabernet wines blended into it, with the wines (almost) divided between the two distinct regions of the vineyard. We don’t plan it this way before harvest; the decision is made with blending trials post-fermentation. For our Bordeaux Blends, knowing one is Merlot based we start there, from 2003 to 2007, the Merlot percentage has been as low as 48% and as high as 62%. Cabernet complements our Merlot and as mentioned above, based on the quality of the fruit during the vintage year, you will see a mix of other varietals – Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. 2003 and 2007 blends include Merlot, Cabernet and Malbec, while in 2005 and 2006 Cabernet Franc plays a significant supporting role to the Merlot and Cabernet. Again, we are fortunate to have these options to guide our winemaking decisions.

Behind harvesting, blending trials can be the most exciting winemaking activity. While the wine (producing) world of California proliferates single vineyard, single varietal/clonal wines, many of which I truly enjoy drinking, I have also stared down my nose at far too many one-dimensional wines that lack that excitement factor you wish for in every glass. I’d be curious to what wines you enjoy drinking – blends, single vineyard, single varietal. And how much do you know about these wines? If there is a wine that is a staple in your wine drinking diet, I hope you take a few minutes to check out the tasting and technical notes (on the winery’s website) and dig a little deeper into the glass, it might surprise you.

Dan Petroski is Assistant Winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Napa Valley. Dan has an MBA from New York University and worked as an Ad Exec in New York for several years, before switching it up and trading his suit for a move out west

Rethinking Bordeaux

posted by Dan in Snooth, Wine, Guest Bloggers

For you business school types, wine geeks, Bordeaux aficionados and value seekers, the good people at Cornell University’s School of Hotel Administration released in June a report that analyzes the Bordeaux Classification of 1855 for the modern day consumer. The analysis, after review of wine ratings from the three most popular sources today (Robert Parker, Stephen Tanzer and Wine Spectator), proposes some modifications to the original classification. The authors don’t believe that their study will change the mind of the Bordelais, but they do a stellar job in helping ratings mongers understand the successes and failures of the 61 Chataeu considered “classified growths” from First to Fifth.

The short report contains charts and graphs and the explanation of their regression analyses that brought them to their conclusions - that modifications to the original classification are necessary based on current third party qualitative reviews and (consequent) market demands. The use of the popular “rating services” was pull-quoted, as it often is under such circumstances, to remind readers that one “should not compare scores,… but should choose the rater who best matches their own tastes.” Without surprise, Parker led the pack with the highest average ratings per vintage, the Spectator was a close second and Tanzer was most conservative with a one-point plus differential from Parker.

Since Parker and the Spectator originated in the late 70’s (’78 and ‘76 respectively) and Tanzer in 1985, the report focuses on vintages from 1995 to the present where at least 40% of the 61 wines were reviewed during each vintage year. Vintages, in the report, are compared and give consumers a mathematician’s look at standout growing years. Again, without surprise, score inflation is seen in the 21st Century - 2000, 2003 and 2005. The report states that years of improving viticultural and vinification practices could be a explanation of this trend, but also implies that the reviewers are playing to the consumers who are relying on their services. (The cynic’s viewpoint is that the Chateau themselves have been witnessing these trends and are crafting wines that feed this vicious cycle.) However, it is quite interesting that the report states the circulation of each reviewer’s publication - 40,000 subscribers to erobertparker, 363,000 subscribers to Wine Spectator, Tanzer, unknown, but likely less than Parker. That is a primary readership that is a fraction of the American wine drinking public (let alone worldwide). [Statistical note: According to recent research done by Constellation Brands and the Wine Institute, only 12% of the wine drinking public uses reviewer comments to help make their buying decisions. That’s less than 450,000 people - subscribed to rating services - in a universe of 5 million ‘enthusiasts’ as described by Constellation and Wine Institute.] I digress.

The compelling thing about the report is what they have reported regarding QPR (quality price ratio). The authors of the report don’t take credit for this and state that critics have been citing this for years regarding the original 1855 Classification. Frank Prial, the venerable wine critic from the New York Times, stated this decades ago, “there are Fourth and Fifth Growths that should be Second and Thirds; alternatively, there are highly rated properties that should be demoted.” Using the statistics from the findings, the Cornell folk found this true, pumping Chataeu Leoville-Las-Cases from Second Growth to First Growth and Chateau Lynch-Bages and Chateau Ponet-Canet from Fifth to Second Growths. There are also a handful of Chateau that fall, most interestingly, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild from First to Second.

The forward movers are an interesting set. The jumps in classification correlate to their price per bottle. Leoville-Las-Cases costs three times more than the average Second Growth wine, but still a third cheaper than its would-be counterparts in the First Growth. Similarly, Ponet-Canet sells at a 260% premium from its fellow Fifth Growth, but a 40% discount from its potential Second Growth bedfellows.

Cornell has done a valiant service to wine drinkers with this report, especially in showing the consistency of the reviewers when rating the Third, Fourth and Fifth Growth wines as being ‘very good to excellent’ in their reviews and costing a fraction of their upper crust neighbors. As linked above, I implore you to read it yourself (registration to the Cornell site for a download is free and easy) and then make your own buying decisions, if you haven’t already.

Dan Petroski is Assistant Winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Napa Valley. Dan has an MBA from New York University and worked as an Ad Exec in New York for several years, before switching it up and trading his suit for a move out west.

Pairing Pinot

posted by Dan in Snooth, Wine, Guest Bloggers

I thought I would follow the trends in some of the recent blog posts here on Snooth to talk about pairing food and wine. But first, a couple of apologies before I begin. First for not sharing this sooner with all of you and not ordering you to visit the website of fellow guest blogger, Kirstin Jackson, author of Vin de la Table. Vin de la Table is home to one of the most delicious subtitles in the blogosphere - Ambrosial Adventures in Wine and Food Pairing. If there is a chef’s table in heaven, I imagine each meal crescends with Ambrosia and a glass of d’Yquem.

A little over a month ago, I sent Kirstin an e-mail asking for her advice on what I should pair with Pinot Noir. My tasting group had decided to taste 2006 Pinots that were made by the hands and palates of those in the group. Being one of a couple in the group who is not making Pinot, I was partly responsible for some food stuffs to enjoy at the tasting. Our tastings are typically accompanied by a platter of local meats and cheeses. I was hoping to break the pattern with some more substantial victuals, so I reached out to Kirstin who wrote back with the zeal of a gastronomical prophet, owner of an enlightened sense of eating and drinking. Her suggestions below.

But first, my second apology. With the Nation’s holiday two days away, it would have been worthwhile to make 4th of July BBQ pairings a post. However, there are some moments when wine just doesn’t work. And the 4th of July BBQ is one of them (add the Memorial Day BBQ and the Labor Day fete). While I am at it, let’s say that wine and sporting events don’t work either. Sometimes you have to look that label in the face and just say, no. Go on, disagree all you Cabernet and Hamburger converts, you Zinfandel and Ribs lovers. Change my public opinion, I welcome it.

Without further ado. Pairing Pinot…My notes are in brackets after successfuly attempting these pairings at the tasting and at home.

“Sautee ‘wild’ mushrooms with butter, parsley, salt and pepper, and a little finely chopped shallot or garlic. Place on top of a crostin - a rustic baguette toasted with olive oil, salt and pepper. Risotto with Truffle oil. Blanched fennel with brown butter and parmesan. Wild rice with mushrooms or mushroom, risotto balls. [Pinot Noir has the ability to take on, as the French say, les gouts de terroir, the tastes of the earth. Mushrooms are regularly described as a flavor profile for Pinot. These above are classic aperitif pairings and more.]

[Local plug] If you are near the Oxbow Market or Fatted Calf Charcuterie, any of their pates would be perfect with Pinot. [An acidic wine will help elevate the palate pairing with flavorful and texture driven pates. White wine or sweet wines are common pairings, but the acidity in Pinot will work wonders as well.]

Cheeses: Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk (triple cream, cow’s milk), Cypress Grove Fresh Chevre (goat), a Gruyere or Comte (cow). [Kirstin breaks the wine and cheese pairing rule by offering a goat’s milk cheese, the Chevre, which can have an acidic/tart bend that doesn’t play well with Pinot. Try it yourself. The answer always lies in the mouth of the beholder.]

Meats: Roast chicken, roast pork loin, carnitas (swear!). Seared duck breast or Peking duck, Prosiutto. [The one pairing I have yet to try is the Carnitas. But because of Kirstin’s emphasis, I will, promise!]

Let me know if you’d like any other ideas. I’m glad you asked!”

I am glad I asked too. I hope you all enjoy these options and report back when you have.

Happy Fourth of July.

Dan Petroski is Assistant Winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards in Napa Valley. Dan has an MBA from New York University and worked as an Ad Exec in New York for several years, before switching it up and trading his suit for a move out west.